HAVING FUN WITH JACQUES PEPIN

I wish the title of my post could be taken literally, because I’d love to meet Mr. Pepin…   Unfortunately (or perhaps I should say malheureusement), I was just playing with one of his recipes:  a broccoli puree from his book “Fast Food My Way”  that might very well be one of the side dishes I make most often.  I am not the only one who loves it, Phil asks me to make it whenever he is grilling a side of salmon or cooking fish filets.  It is a perfect accompaniment for seafood, but I also like to pair it with roast chicken or pork.  Versatile, non?

Broccoli & Spinach Puree

BROCCOLI AND SPINACH PUREE WITH BROWN BUTTER
(inspired by Jacques Pepin)

2 large heads of broccoli, florets only
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
pinch of nutmeg
2 cups spinach leaves (or more, to taste)

Bring 3 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the broccoli florets and the garlic clove. Bring back to a boil, reduce heat, and cook until tender (about 10 minutes). Drain and reserve some of the cooking liquid.

Melt the butter in a small skillet and cook it over low heat until it turns golden brown. Do not let it burn.

Put the broccoli and garlic in the bowl of a food processor, add salt, pepper, and nutmeg.  Process until almost smooth, open the processor, drizzle the browned butter and add the spinach leaves on top. Process again until fully smooth, adding a bit of the reserved cooking liquid until the puree achieves a consistency you like.  Taste and adjust seasoning.   Serve right away, or refrigerate. It reheats well in the microwave.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

I do hope you’ll try my version of Pepin’s recipe, it is amazing how just a little spinach took this puree to a higher level.  A subtle change in texture, a real bump in flavor.  I normally don’t preach on nutritional content of food, but the humble spinach always makes me feel great. Old Popeye cartoons speaking (and dating me), I suppose.

Plated

This puree matched nicely with a simple tilapia filet prepared according to this recipe.  Leftovers can be either enjoyed after a quick tour in the microwave, or… go the indulgent route and use it as a basis for a souflee. I suggest following  the basic method from Julia Child.   You simply cannot go wrong by joining Julia & Jacques.  Almost as good as Sally and Phil…    😉

ONE YEAR AGO: Brined-Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

TWO YEARS AGO: Pork Ragu

THREE YEARS AGO: Friendly Kuri Squash

FOUR YEARS AGO: Green Light for this Salad

BRAISED FENNEL WITH SAFFRON AND TOMATO

This side dish is elegant and luscious. Perfect to pair with chicken, pork or a mild fish like cod or sea bass. But, if you prefer to walk the vegetarian path, enjoy it over farro, barley, or as we did, a colorful quinoa.  Add a hearty loaf of bread, and you will be all set…

Fennel with Tomato Saffron1

The recipe is published in  Vegetable Literacy  the latest cookbook from Deborah Madison. Lisa  from “Lisa is Cooking” wrote a great review about the book a few months ago, and shared a recipe from it, check it out by jumping here. Deborah Madison has the amazing ability of bringing the best out of the most humble vegetable. I do not own a copy of this particular book (bravely resisted so far), but her classic Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone is part of our collection.

The recipe is available online, just click here.

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Definitely the most important advice is to take the time to brown the fennel well, that will ensure a deeper flavor in the end.  I don’t recommend this dish for those who have issues with fennel, because its flavor is very prominent.  I crumbled goat cheese over the braise, allowing it to melt down in the liquid, and right before serving added the greens from the fennel, minced. As the recipe states, if your fennel bulbs came without the tops, use parsley instead. My main modification from the published recipe was to squeeze a little lemon juice all over, and reduce slightly the amount of tomato paste. I thought three tablespoons seemed excessive, so I added only two.  Capers and saffron are fantastic together, by the way.

Served
Because we have nothing against a little meat with our veggie goodness,  a boneless, grilled chicken breast was part of our dinner too.  As far as looks are concerned, I suppose a fully white quinoa would have been better, but the bag of tricolor quinoa acquired months ago at a Trader Joe’s was winking at me from the pantry.  I spooned a little of the braising sauce over the chicken, so that it all got tied together in a beautiful caper & saffron glory!

platedDinner is served!

ONE YEAR AGO: Revenge of the Two Derelicts

TWO YEARS AGO: Grilling Ribbons

THREE YEARS AGO: Peppery Cashew Crunch

FOUR YEARS AGO: Baked Shrimp and Feta Pasta

POMEGRANATE CHICKEN THIGHS & CARROT MASH

chickencarrot
I am feeling quite generous these days, so you’ll get two recipes in a single post. It turns out they went so well together, that it would be sad to separate them.  The source of inspiration for the chicken was a blog I found not too long ago, and started following right away: The View from Great Island, hosted by Sue. Her photography is beautiful, and I’d be happy sitting at her dinner table anytime! The mashed carrot was in  the latest issue of Fine Cooking magazine  as an option for Thanksgiving side dish. Roasted asparagus rounded our meal quite nicely.

Pomegranate Chicken ThighsPOMEGRANATE AND LIME CHICKEN THIGHS
(adapted from The View from the Great Island)

for the chicken
1 cup Greek yogurt
1/2 cup pomegranate juice
1 tsp salt
4 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs
for the glaze
1/4 cup pomegranate molasses
juice of 1 lime
2 Tbsp agave nectar
1 Tbsp Dijon mustard

To marinate the chicken, put the yogurt, pomegranate juice, salt, and chicken in a large zip lock bag. Massage everything until well combined. Put in the fridge to marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Set the oven to 300 F.  Remove the chicken from the marinade, place the pieces skin side down on a large baking dish, and cover with aluminum foil.  Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour at this low temperature.  Remove the foil, if there is a lot of liquid accumulated in the dish remove most of it and discard.  Turn the pieces skin side up, cover with foil again and bake for another 20 minutes.  At this point, prepare the glaze by combining all ingredients together.   If too thin, gently warm it on a small saucepan to thicken it a little.  Watch it carefully because it can burn due to all the sugar.

Remove the aluminum foil from the baking dish, increase oven temperature to 425 F.  Bake for 15 minutes, once the skin starts to get some color brush the glaze all over the chicken thighs and bake for 10 more minutes or until very dark.  You can also broil the pieces at this point, but pay attention to prevent it from burning.  Serve with lime wedges.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

Carrot Mash1

    CARROT MASH WITH ORANGE AND MINT
    (adapted from Fine Cooking magazine)

    2 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
    salt
    1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 2 pieces
    2 Tbs. almond milk, unsweetened
    2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
    1 tsp dried mint
    1 tsp finely grated orange zest
    Put the carrots in a large saucepan with enough cool water to cover by at least 1 inch. Add 1 tsp. salt and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and cook at a gentle boil until the carrots can be easily pierced with a fork, about 25 minutes.

    Drain well in a colander, letting the steam rise for a few minutes. Meanwhile, heat the butter, almond milk, oil, mint, orange zest, and  1/2 tsp salt in the saucepan over low heat until the butter melts.

    Purée the carrots in a food processor until smooth and then add them to the pan, stirring well to combine.

    Adjust seasoning and serve.

    ENJOY!

    to print the recipe, click here

    Comments: My main modification of the chicken recipe was to adapt it to my favorite method of cooking chicken thighs: low and slow followed by high and fast.  I like the way the meat gets super tender and the skin super crisp.  You should stop by Sue’s blog and check her version too.  She actually made the glaze from pomegranate juice, reducing it with sugar. Since I had a bottle of pomegranate molasses, I followed a slightly different path.  The full idea is to have a reasonably thick glaze to coat the chicken.

    orangezest

    The carrot mash: my only tweak was to use almond milk instead of heavy cream.  I love almond milk and use it every chance I get.  A lot more orange zest went into the recipe then called for, because the music playing got me carried away with the Microplane. Such a cool gadget!  Phil thought it was slightly too orange-y and not enough carrot-y, but when we had leftovers next day that flavor had mellowed down considerably.  As to a side dish for Thanksgiving, I was a bit shocked by how little puree 2 pounds of carrots produced… If you will be feeding an army of people, be ready to peel a ton of carrots and scale this recipe up by a factor of 3 or 4.  😉  Still, a delicious option, bright color, bright flavor, it will shine on your Thanksgiving table next to that big bird.

    ONE  YEAR AGO: The Many Faces of Kale

    TWO YEARS AGO:  Short and Sweet

    THREE YEARS AGO: Ciabatta, a Classic Italian Bread

    FOUR YEARS AGO: Magical Lamb Stew

    SILKY CAULIFLOWER PUREE WITH ALMOND MILK

    I am not sure why it took me so long to try almond milk, but  I fell in love with it the moment I tasted it.  This one is my favorite, the plain and lighter version made by Silk.   It is part of my daily routine now, half a glass of almond milk right before going to work, and another half after lunch.  Shockingly cold is best, by the way.   Phil used it in his lunch smoothies in place of  yogurt and loved it too. My passion for almond milk started me on a virtual expedition in the internet chasing for recipes using it in cooking.   I was pleasantly surprised to find quite an extensive number of possibilities.  My first adventure with Silk was a winner:  cauliflower puree.  I share with you the recipe,  inspired by Food and Wine.

    AlmondCauliPuree1

    SILKY CAULIFLOWER PUREE WITH ALMOND MILK
    (from the Bewitching Kitchen)

    1 medium-sized head of cauliflower
    1 tbsp grapeseed oil
    1 celery stalk, diced
    1/2 red bell pepper, diced
    1 shallot, diced
    Half gallon Light Almond Milk (or slightly less)
    salt and pepper

    Prepare the cauliflower by removing the outer leaves and the central core.  Cut the florets off, slicing the large ones in two or three pieces.

    Heat the oil on a skillet. Saute the celery, onion, and red bell pepper until the onion is golden, and the mixture is very fragrant. Season with a little salt and black pepper.   Add the cauliflower to the skillet and cook it on high heat for a couple of minutes, stirring often.  Transfer the mixture to a saucepan so that the cauliflower fill it no more than halfway up.   Add almond milk to the saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil.   Reduce the heat, cover the pan keeping the lid slightly ajar, and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until the cauliflower is tender.

    Transfer the cooked cauliflower to the bowl of a food processor, keeping the almond milk in the pan.  No need to drain it completely, the amount of liquid that stick to the florets will help ensure a nice texture.   Process until smooth.  If necessary, add a little more warm almond milk.   Test for seasoning.   Serve warm.

    ENJOY!


    to print the recipe, click here

    As I said, my first adventure with almond milk in cooking won’t be the last. In fact, I have this recipe on my “to try soon” folder, and hope I can actually switch it into the “tried and true”  in the near future.  One store in town normally carries Marcona almonds, which is the only tricky ingredient to find. With that in hand, I should be good to go.

    Probably because I used light almond milk instead of full fat, the liquid seemed to separate a little as the cauliflower cooked. It definitely did not harm the dish, so if you use the light version, ignore its looks.  It will all come together in a silky happy ending!

    dinner

    Our dinner felt quite special, considering it took place at the height of our kitchen renovation. Here is the full menu for that evening:  roasted chicken thighs marinated in beer-soy-orange (marinade to be blogged about soon), green beans with almonds, and the cauliflower puree.  Mr. Hamilton roasted the chicken thighs, Mr. Breville broiled the skin for a couple of minutes, and our single burner induction stove took care of the rest.  A few sautéed almonds on top of the puree tied both side dishes together quite nicely… even if I say so myself…   😉

    plate

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    THREE YEARS AGO:
    Popeye-Pleasing Salad
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    FOUR YEARS AGO: Summer’s Finale

    DITALINI PASTA SALAD

    I am not at all fond of pasta salads that are loaded with oily dressing, or the dreadful mayo to weigh things down even further. I like a salad that leaves me feeling refreshed and light. Ditalini is a shape normally used in soups, but I thought it would work well in this type of recipe. It has slightly more body than orzo, and is not as “slippery” . Rather than a strict recipe, this is all about flexible amounts, so play with it, and make it shine!

    IMG_0320

    DITALINI PASTA SALAD
    (from the Bewitching Kitchen)

    Ditalini pasta, cooked all dente and rinsed in cold water
    1/4 cup grape seed oil
    1/8 cup red wine vinegar
    1 Tbs lemon juice
    Dried oregano to taste
    Dried mint to taste
    Red pepper flakes, a pinch or two
    Cherry tomatoes, red and yellow
    Green onions, sliced thin
    Salt and pepper to taste

    Place the cooked and cooled ditalini pasta on a large bowl.

    Make the vinaigrette by mixing and whisking well the grape seed oil, vinegar, lemon juice, oregano, mint, and red pepper flakes.

    Cut the cherry tomatoes in half, and season lightly with salt and pepper.

    Add the vinaigrette to the pasta and mix well.  Incorporate the cherry tomatoes, add the green onions, adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.  Keep cold…  and….

    ENJOY!
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    to print the recipe, click here

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    Comments:  Feel free to use fresh mint instead of dried, as well as fresh oregano, although I find fresh oregano too overpowering and always use dried instead.  I kicked myself for not thinking about adding capers, so keep that in mind, this salad begs for a handful of those.   We like our vinaigrette to be more about the vinegar than the oil. We also prefer the milder taste of grape seed compared to olive oil, so grape seed was my choice.  You should make it the way you prefer, more oil, olive oil, a little mustard, maybe some garlic.  As you may have noticed, we are not garlic people.  It is quite possible that if they sequence our genome, a few vampire genes might be found here and there.  But, nothing to worry about, we are usually very well-behaved, your neck is safe with us.   😉

    VP
    Are you familiar with Vincent Price’s cookbook?  A classic, a real classic….

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    ONE YEAR AGO: Celebrate Wednesday with a Thai Seafood Curry

    TWO YEARS AGO:  Post-workout Breakfast

    THREE YEARS AGO: Semolina Barbecue Buns

    FOUR YEARS AGO: Lavash Crackers