CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP

Posted in Soups, Vegetarian-friendly, Veggies by sallybr

Emeril Lagasse had his trademark “BAM!” Rachael Ray goes with “Yumm-o,” and Anne Burrell chimes in again and again: “Brown food tastes good!” When they are overused these expressions get on my nerves, but I can’t argue with the importance of browning your food to pump up its flavor. So, what is happening to the food? It all reduces to a series of chemical events known as the “Maillard reactions,”named after the French chemist who discovered them, Louis-Camille Maillard (pronounced “mah-yar”).

Maillard reactions involve proteins and sugars. These molecules may react with each other if they contain atoms on their surfaces with a net positive or negative charge. Proteins consist of tens or hundreds of amino acids linked together, but the constituent amino acids of a native protein are not very reactive, because they fold into a stable 3-dimensional structure. However, subjecting the protein to high energy (heat) or a basic (high pH) environment destabilizes its structure, exposing the charges of many of its amino acids. If present, a sugar will react with the charged amino acids to produce all sorts of different compounds, many of which taste great! Note that boiling water won’t do the trick: the Maillard reactions need much higher heat, like in a skillet with hot oil, or on a grill. As we all know, these are the best approaches to browning foods.

Caramelization and Maillard reactions are often used interchangeably, but this is wrong because the former refer to what happens to a sugar alone upon heating, whereas Maillard reactions always involve proteins and sugars. The two processes are cosmetically and conceptually similar, in that both produce a brown color, but they arise from different chemistry.

and… brown food DOES tastes good! 😉

That brings me to a recipe for caramelized carrot soup, in which just a few simple ingredients….

… come together to create an incredible depth of flavor. Here increasing both the heat (a pressure cooker works its magic), and the pH (baking soda to the rescue) optimizes the Maillard reactions. Chemistry never tasted so good!

CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP (adapted from Food and Wine magazine)

1/3 cup low fat yogurt

1 teaspoon chopped tarragon

1/4 teaspoon caraway seeds, chopped

salt and pepper

6 tTbs unsalted butter (divided in 4 + 2 Tbs)

1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

2 cups fresh carrot juice (see notes)

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

In a small bowl, mix the yogurt with tarragon, caraway seeds, a touch of salt and pepper, and reserve. In a pressure cooker, combine 4 tablespoons of the butter with the carrots and cook uncovered until the butter is melted. Stir in the salt and baking soda, cover and cook at full pressure for 10 minutes.Carefully move the pressure cooker to the sink and run cold water over the lid until the temperature drops down and the pressure is equalized (one minute under cold water will definitely be enough). Open the pressure cooker, add the carrot juice (or a mixture of carrot juice + water), and stir to release caramelized bits stuck to the bottom of the pan.

Transfer the contents of the pan to a blender or food processor, add the ginger, the remaining 2 Tbs of butter, and puree until smooth. Season the soup with pepper and pour into bowls. Garnish with a small dollop of the reserved yogurt, sprinkle some fresh tarragon, and serve.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

Comments: Don’t be alarmed by the look of the carrot/butter mixture once you open the pressure cooker. The brown bits stuck to the pan will dissolve easily and they give this soup the most intense carrot flavor ever!

The box of carrot juice I used had a little less than 2 cups so I completed the volume with water. If you have some V8 juice around the pantry, it could be a nice addition. This technique won me over, I wonder if other soups could benefit from this treatment. Caramelized broccoli? Butternut squash? Only future experiments will tell… 😉 At any rate, this will be my favorite soup recipe for the year 2011. Hands down!

ONE YEAR AGO: Miso-Grilled Shrimp

TWO YEARS AGO: A Special Holiday Fruitcake

28Nov2011

SECRET RECIPE CLUB: WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO

Posted in Rice and Grains, Secret Recipe Club, Vegetarian-friendly by sallybr

My second “assignment” at the Secret Recipe Club was the blog “I am a Honey Bee”. I had a lot of fun browsing through its pages, starting on the “About Me” chapter with a list of 25 things about her. A few matched me so well I had to smile: “I hate the cold, REALLY hate the cold…” or “I went to Greece, fell in love with everything I saw, ate, smelled, touched…” …. and “I get frustrated too easily, I’m sorta working on that one” (good to know I’m not alone in this! 😉

Even though I spent quite a bit of time reading her blog, it took me about 35 seconds to choose her Wild Mushroom Risotto. It is the perfect time of the year for it, plus I had two special ingredients already at home: porcini mushrooms, and home made chicken stock. All I needed was to stop at the store for two more types of mushrooms (fresh shiitake and white), and I was ready to have some serious fun. On a small departure from her recipe, I used the pressure cooker to make it, and with this statement I just irritated all serious risotto enthusiasts, but trust me: it is a nice trick to have up your sleeve. Still, I’ll give you the two variations, as not everyone has a pressure cooker at home.

WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO
(Traditional Method)
(adapted from “I am a Honey Bee“)

1 cup very hot water
1/4 ounce dried wild mushrooms, such as porcini
9 ounces assorted fresh mushrooms
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1 cup Arborio or rice
8 sage leaves, finely julienned, divided
1/2 cup dry white wine
5 – 7 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock)
4 to 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup grated Parmegiano cheese, plus more for serving
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Soak the dried mushrooms in 1 cup of very hot water for 30 minutes. Remove the mushrooms with a slotted spoon, chop them finely. Filter the water through a sieve to remove any grit, and add it to the chicken (or veggie) stock in a medium size pan, keep it at a simmer on very low heat.

Chop the fresh mushrooms. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent. Add the mushrooms, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook until tender and all moisture has been absorbed. Add half the sage and the rice, cook stirring, until the grains are well coated, and start to get some color – 3 to 4 minutes.

Add wine. Cook, stirring, until wine is absorbed by rice. Using a ladle, add 3/4 cup hot stock to rice. Stir rice constantly, at a moderate speed. When rice has absorbed most but not all of liquid and mixture is just thick enough to leave a clear wake behind the spoon when stirring, add another 3/4 cup stock.

Continue adding stock and stirring constantly, until rice is mostly translucent but still opaque in center. Add the porcini mushrooms, and continue cooking until rice is al dente, but not crunchy. Remove from heat, stir butter, remaining sage leaves, and Parmigiano cheese. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, and serve, with additional shaved cheese on top, if so desired.

to print the recipe (traditional method), click here

WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO
(Pressure Cooker)

1 cup very hot water
1/4 ounce dried wild mushrooms, such as porcini
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter, divided
1/2 cup shallots, diced
9 ounces assorted fresh mushrooms, sliced
1 cup Arborio rice
8 fresh sage leaves, finely julienned, divided
3 + 1/2 cups chicken broth
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano cheese

In a pressure cooker, heat 4 tbs Olive oil and 1 Tbs Butter. Add the shallots and saute until translucent and fragrant. Add the mushrooms, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook until they start to get soft.

Add half the sage and the rice, cook stirring until all grains are well coated with the oil/mushroom mixture (about 3 minutes). Pour all the hot stock and wine in the pan, close it, and bring to full pressure. Reduce the heat or use the specific instructions from your pan to keep the pressure constant for 7 minutes. Immediately take the pan to the sink, run some cold water over the lid to reduce the temperature, and when the pressure is down, open the pan. If there’s still too much liquid, cook gently, stirring until it reaches the consistency you like. Test the rice to make sure it’s cooked through, add the tablespoon of butter, the remaining sage leaves, and the Parmigiano cheese, adjust seasoning, and serve.

ENJOY!

to print the pressure cooker method recipe, click here

Comments: One of the reasons I like the pressure cooker method is the ability to know exactly when the recipe will be ready, as it makes entertaining a lot easier. I’ve made risotto using this basic method many times, and it never failed me. In seven minutes, the rice is perfectly cooked, and usually the amount of liquid remaining in the pan is very close to perfect. My main problem with risotto is taking the picture, I am a bit slow and the rice goes on absorbing the liquid. By the time I am satisfied with the photo, it’s a little passed its prime.. . 😉

This recipe is delicious, no matter the method you choose to make it. Porcini will always turn any meal into a festive occasion, and I think the sage goes well with it too.

Make sure you stop by “I am a Honey Bee” to check all her other recipes, and if you want to see all other posts in today’s reveal day follow the links by clicking in the icon below (the little blue toad).

ONE YEAR AGO: Tartine Bread: Basic Country Loaf

TWO YEARS AGO: Pumpkin Pie, Light as a Feather

22Oct2011

A MUST-MAKE VEGGIE PUREE

Posted in Side dishes, Vegetarian-friendly, Veggies by sallybr

Those who are familiar with low-carb diets know that cauliflower is the number one choice as a substitute for potatoes, and even rice. Indeed, I’ve seen recipes in which the florets are grated and used in what it’s called “cauli-rice.” I don’t think it would fool me, though, I love rice way too much! 😉 Now, back to puree…

Potatoes have enough starch to produce a creamy and smooth texture when cooked and mashed. Other veggies like cauliflower, broccoli, even parsnips, end up with a more watery and grainy texture. For that reason, most recipes will coach you into adding a lot of butter, heavy cream, or some type of cream cheese. Sally Schneider, author of “The Improvisational Cook,” came up with a very clever twist: she cooks the veggie in milk (low fat is fine), and adds to the cooking liquid an apple and a little bit of pasta (like angel hair). The result is amazing. Never in a million years I expected Phil to urge me to blog about a cauliflower recipe. His exact words were: “make sure you really pump this recipe up, it’s awesome”!

CAULIFLOWER AND APPLE PUREE
(adapted from “The Improvisational Cook“)

1 medium cauliflower, core and leaves removed
1 small apple, peeled and cored, chopped
1/2 quart low fat milk
1/2 quart water
1/2 ounce angel hair pasta, broken in pieces
1 tsp salt
pinch of sugar
ground white pepper

Cut the cauliflower florets and stems roughly into pieces. Add the pieces to a pan with the milk/water, apple, bring to a gentle boil. Add the pasta, salt, and sugar. Cook, stirring every once in a while, until the cauliflower is tender (25 minutes).

Remove 1/4 cup from the cooking liquid and reserve. Strain the vegetables (the rest of the milk/water can be used for soups later), place them in a food processor and puree for a couple of minutes, until completely smooth. Make sure to stop and scrape down the sides of the bowl once or twice. If too thick, add some of the reserved cooking liquid.

Return the puree to the pan, place it over very low heat, add white pepper, taste, and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

Schneider’s book is perfect for those who like to use recipes as a starting point instead of a rigid set of rules. She opens each subject with a section called “Understanding,” explaining the reasoning behind the recipes in that section. Finally, she offers suggestions to improvise on your own.
I absolutely love this approach!

This puree is silky-smooth, you won’t taste the apple, but it really does something to “tame” the cauliflower flavor, so even those with “cauliflower issues” will be pleased. Of course, because there’s a small amount of pasta in it, this dish won’t be as low in carbs as a pure cauliflower version, but it is still much lighter than mashed potatoes. Sometimes, it’s exactly what we crave…

ONE YEAR AGO: Vegetarian Lasagna

TWO YEARS AGO: Brazilian Pao de Queijo (Cheese Breads) – a classic!

12Sep2011

POST-WORKOUT BREAKFAST

Posted in Breakfast & Brunch, Vegetarian-friendly by sallybr

Exercising on weekdays is a bit tricky. I find myself cutting some routines a little short, rushing to eat something quickly, take a shower and go to work. But Saturdays and Sundays are another story: I can indulge, start with a nice run, top it with some weight training, do the full 90-minute P90X yoga. Once it’s all over, I relax and enjoy a nice breakfast. Lately, I’ve been hooked on this yogurt concoction because it is refreshing, not too heavy, a well-deserved reward after working out.

GREEN APPLE & YOGURT BOWL
(from the Bewitching Kitchen)

1 cup non-fat yogurt
1/2 large Granny Smith apple, grated
sliced almonds
agave nectar

Toast the sliced almonds lightly, either in an oven or a non-stick skillet. Watch them very carefully, as they go from toasted to burned in seconds. Let them cool slightly.

In a bowl, mix the grated apple (no need to peel) with the yogurt, add some agave nectar to your taste. Sprinkle the almonds on top, a little extra drizzle of agave, and…

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

I wish I could give credit to the source for this “recipe” – so simple that it hardly qualifies as such. I saw a version in the net several months ago, never saved it, just kept it in my memory as something to try. Maybe the original had honey and a different kind of nuts, but at any rate, start with the green apple and yogurt, add whatever you feel like, including your favorite cereal, and you can’t go wrong.

I use non-fat yogurt to keep the fat content to a minimum, but you can definitely go for the full fat type, it will be just a tad more decadent, but still good for you.

ONE YEAR AGO: Spices… Did someone say spices?

TWO YEARS AGO: The lighter side of meatloaf

10Sep2011

SIMPLY SOBA

Posted in Pasta & Noodles, Vegetarian-friendly by sallybr

As the proud owner of too many cookbooks, I try to give them priority when searching for culinary inspiration, but every once in a while a blogger’s recipe blows away the competition, I won’t rest until I make it. A beautiful photography is sure nice, but I am primarily taken by the writing along the recipe, especially if it conveys more than just cooking.

The moment I read Rosa’s write up on this post while listening to the beautiful song in the background, I knew I was going to make – and love – those noodles. The few ingredients come together in what seems like an almost austere preparation, but refrain from the temptation of adding more stuff to it. Accept its Zen flow, and keep it simple.

COLD SOBA NOODLES
(adapted from Rosa’s Yummy Yums blog)

2 bundles of buckwheat noodles (approximately 80 g each)
4 Tbs soy sauce (preferably Kikkoman)
1 + 1/2 Tbs dark sesame oil
2 + 1/2 Tbs rice vinegar (unseasoned)
1 + 1/2 Tsp Wasabi paste
3 Tsps fresh ginger, chopped
2 + 1/2 Tbs sesame seeds, roasted
2 medium carrots, cut into thin matchtsicks
1/2 medium cucumber, cut into thin matchsticks

In a large pan, bring salted water to boil, add the noodles, and simmer for about 4 minutes, or according to the package directions. When the noodles are cooked, drain and immediately run cold water over them. Transfer the noodles to a bowl as you finish preparing the other ingredients.

Make the dressing by whisking together in a small bowl the sesame oil, soy sauce, rice vinegar, wasabi, and ginger. Add to the noodles, tossing to combine. Add the toasted sesame seeds, and mix gently. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes.

When ready to serve, add the carrot and cucumber, mix gently, sprinkle with more sesame seeds if you so desire.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

Comments: To cut the veggies I used one of these small gadgets that work very well and are simple to wash. It makes long ribbons that mimic the shape of the noodles, perfect for this dish.

This recipe will be part of our regular rotation from now on. Leftovers were delicious next day, although the cucumber and the carrots lose their crispness after being in the dressing overnight. It didn’t bother me at all, but you can always cut a little more of the veggies and add to your plate. Buckwheat noodles seem to perform a little magic: they satisfy but never make you feel too full. My favorite type of noodles, hands down.

Rosa, a big thank you for inspiring me with your “Lesson in Zen” 😉

ONE YEAR AGO: Griddle-Fried Filet of Petrale Sole

TWO YEARS AGO: Barm Bread (a must-bake bread!)