FAST, FRESH, AND GREEN

Posted in Cookbook Reviews, Vegetarian-friendly, Veggies by sallybr

As you may remember, 2012 was another year that began with the regrettable, futile decision to avoid buying any more cookbooks. But, one of the curious things about New Year’s resolutions is that you must overcome a certain barrier to break them. This situation is analogous to a biochemical paradigm, the so-called “energy of activation,” to make a reaction go forward. It’s that little kick an enzyme provides, by binding its substrate, that causes a normally slow reaction to happen right away. Two things boosted me to buy Fast, Fresh, and Green. First, Susie Middleton wrote it. Having known her for a long time as the editor of Fine Cooking, I expected a great book. Then, I read reviews on amazon.com and THAT was the catalyst, the activation energy, the end of my inner debate. Reaction CATALYZED, iTunes contacted, book delivered to My Preciousss within 2 milliseconds!! Below I share with you a recipe, a teaser, and my thoughts on the book.

THE RECIPE

VANILLA AND CARDAMON GLAZED ACORN SQUASH RINGS
(reprinted from Fast, Fresh, and Green, with permission from Susie Middleton)

1 small acorn squash (1 + 1/4 pounds maximum)
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
2 teaspoons maple syrup
1 + 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamon
kosher salt

Heat your oven to 475 F (or 245 C). Line a large rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper. Cut the acorn squase in half lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds and fibery stuff with a spoon. Place each half, with the cut side down on a cutting board, and slice a little less than an inch of both ends. Discard the ends. Slice the squash crosswise into 1/2 inch slices, and place them over the prepared baking sheet.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Remove the pan from the heat and add the maple syrup, vanilla, and cardamon. Stir well to combine. Use a brush to lightly brush the slices of squash with the a little less than half the amount of butter. Season lightly with salt and turn the slices over. Brush the second side with the remaining melted butter, reserving some to brush at the end (optional). Season the second side with salt.

Roast the squash for 12 minutes. Carefully flip the pieces over, and roast until nicely browned, 10 to 12 minutes more. If you want, brush with a little more butter before serving.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

I think I am becoming cardamon-obsessed. Cannot have enough of it. Love everything about it, particularly that intense smell that hits me when I first open the spice grinder… heaven! In this recipe, the combination of maple, vanilla, and cardamon is outstanding and perfect with the acorn squash. A keeper, and ready so quickly, you can make it for Thanksgiving dinner (as Susie advised in the book) while the turkey rests after roasting. Keep that in mind, Thanksgiving is already peeking at us. 😉

THE TEASER

MAHOGANY MUSHROOMS

Baby-bella mushrooms are sauteed in a simple sauce full of flavor and with a few unexpected twists… They turn out with just the right amount of heat and a sweet and sour hint. Perfect alongside many main dishes. We had it with a T-bone steak.

THE REVIEW

Contrary to many cookbooks in which chapters ate divided either by season of the year, or ingredient, Susie Middleton went through a different route, sorting recipes by method of preparation. I really like that.

The first and second chapters deal with general stuff: what you should have in your pantry as well as cooking equipment (half sheet pans are a must, according to her, and I could not agree more). All other chapters are centered on cooking methods, as follows:

Quick Roasting: My favorite chapter of the book, as I love roasting veggies but usually my impatient nature prevents me from enjoying them too often. The acorn squash rings featured in this post is an example found in this chapter. Some other tempting dishes from the same group: Quick-Roasted Cauliflower with Zesty Orange-Olive Dressing, Quick-Roasted Beet Slices, Sweet Potato “Mini-Fries” with Limey Dipping Sauce and Spiced Salt, Caramelized Plum Tomatoes in an Olive Oil Bath, Roasted Turnips and Pears with Rosemary-Honey Drizzle.

Quick Braising: I think quick braising and stir-frying are two of the most common techniques used in the home-kitchen, and in these categories Susie really shines. All recipes come with some creative twist, an expected flavoring, or combination of ingredients that makes the most humble veggie take center stage. Some examples: Quick-Braised Green Beans with Pomegranate-Balsamic Pan Sauce, Cider-Braised Baby Bok Choy and Golden Apples, Braised Carrots with Blood Orange-Fresh Tarragon Pan Sauce, Silky Braised Fennel in Pink Sauce (this will be my next recipe to try from the book).
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Hands-On Sauteing: These are recipes that require you to stay around the stovetop doing some baby-sitting, but they come together in lightning speed. The teaser recipe, Mahogany Mushrooms, comes from this group. Other recipes on my list to try: Corn Saute with Chile and Lime, Sauteed Carrots with Warm Olive and Mint Dressing, Sauteed Savoy Cabbage with Apple Cider Butter (oh, my…), Brown Butter Summer Squash “Linguine”.

Walk-Away Sauteeing: As the name indicates, once you start cooking, there’s plenty of opportunity to do something else, work on a main dish, play fetch with your dog, or stare at the window admiring the arrival of the Fall. Some tasty examples include: Gingery Sweet Potato and Apple Saute with Toasted Almonds, Carmelized Green Beans and Sweet Onions, Sauteed Turnips with Ham and Molasses, Southwestern Butternut Squash Saute, Smoky Spanish Carrots and Fennel with Toasted Hazelnuts.

Two-Stepping: includes recipes that call for boiling the vegetables and then continuing with another type of preparation, like sauteeing, or inclusion in a salad. I absolutely MUST make the “Brown Butter Asparagus with Pine Nuts” from this chapter. But there’a a lot there to chose from.

No Cooking: This whole chapter calls my name very loud. 😉 The Double-Lemon Ginger Carrot Salad will be showing up at our table very soon. But wouldn’t you be happy with a serving or two of Heirloom Tomato, Summer Peach, and Fresh Herb Gazpacho Salad? I thought so… 😉

Stir-Frying: A collection of very tasty options for stir-fries, with additions such as black bean sauce and balsamic butter to make them special.

Grilling. Reading this chapter it occurred to me that I only grill two veggies: eggplant and zucchini. If you are like me, Susie will definitely open your horizons to include mushrooms, asparagus, even potatoes.
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Baking Gratins: This is the slow-cooking chapter that closes the book. I don’t think any book on veggies would be complete without some gratins, the comfort food by default. Some examples: Mini-Potato Gratin, Slow-Roasted Heirloom Tomato Gratin, Christmas Kale Gratin with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Harvest Gratin of Butternut Squash, Corn, and Leeks.

My verdict: this is a wonderful cookbook, one that will change the way you view your side dishes, especially if you have a busy schedule. I tend to have more problems figuring out what to cook as a side dish than anything else, because we usually rotate a few main dishes during the week. There’s the roast chicken, the grilled salmon, the pork tenderloin, the chicken cutlets, the steaks. But what to serve with them is the million dollar question. This book helps answer that, big time! 😉

Susie, thanks for allowing me to share a recipe from your book!

ONE YEAR AGO: Speculaas

TWO YEARS AGO: Capital Sauce Pork Ribbons over Pot-Browned Noodles

THREE YEARS AGO: Pain a l’ancienne

1Jun2012

BAKED COCONUT & “THE BRAZILIAN KITCHEN”

Posted in Cookbook Reviews, Desserts, Sweets by sallybr

Or, you can call it as Brazilians do: Cocada de Forno

I am very excited to share this recipe, because it’s a very traditional Brazilian delicacy, one that brought me fond memories. Full disclosure: as a child, I wasn’t too wild about coconut, the texture and the way the shredded pieces got into my teeth distracted from its flavor. Thankfully I grew out of that phase, and now embrace the fruit’s unique flavor and texture with the appreciation it deserves. Cocada is a popular street food, sold in markets and coffee joints as small pieces wrapped in a paper napkin. You can take a look at them here. This version, from the book “The Brazilian Kitchen“, will produce a softer version, to be spooned out of a baking dish, or – if baked a little longer, as I did – a sort of blondie with intense coconut flavor. Absolutely perfect for a spring or summer day, it might very well bring a blast of sunshine to your deepest winter.

COCADA DE FORNO (BAKED COCONUT)
(published with permission from Chef Leticia Schwartz)

8 Tbs butter (1/2 cup), at room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3 eggs
1/3 cup coconut milk
1/3 cup sweetened, condensed milk
1 Tbs rum (optional)
1 + 1/2 cups grated coconut (unsweetened)
2 Tbs all-purpose flour, sifted

Heat the oven to 350F. Lightly grease a 24-oz baking dish with butter or cooking spray.

Place the butter and the sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and beat them together at medium speed until creamy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, and continue to mix. Scrape the sides of the bowl after each addition.

Add the coconut milk, the condensed milk, and the rum (if using), and continue to mix until well blended (about one more minute). Add the coconut and mix until incorporated. Fold the flour with a rubber spatula, and spread the batter into the prepared baking dish. You can make the batter ahead of time, keeping it in the fridge for up to 2 days.

Bake in the 350 F oven until the top looks golden brown, the edges are set, but the center is slightly jiggly, about 20 minutes (or if you prefer a firmer consistency, bake until set, 30 to 35 minutes). Remove it from the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes. Serve with a scoop of lemon sorbet for a magical experience…

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

About “The Brazilian Kitchen“: As you may remember, I’ve been on a self-induced cookbook-starvation-diet lately. I bought this book as a gift for a dear friend, and had it at my bedside table for a few days. I knew I had to say goodbye to it, but Leticia’s writing and her recipes were so enticing that I decided to photocopy some (many) pages. Well, I didn’t have to: Phil ordered one for me! So, that explains how a person fully resolved not to buy cookbooks still manages to increase her collection… 😉

I could not be happier with my gift! Leticia covers many of my favorite Brazilian recipes, some of which I’ve featured in the blog: moqueca, chicken soup, black beans, pao de queijo, and brigadeiros. Speaking of brigadeiros, she includes three recipes for them: the traditional chocolate, and two tasty departures from the classic, coconut and pistachio brigadeiros. Dreamy delight…

You will also find recipes for many other Brazilian classics: acaraje‘ (bean fritters), xim xim de galinha (chicken, shrimp, peanut and cashew stew), vatapa‘ (fish puree with coconut milk), quindim (coconut custard cake).

But, what I like the most about “The Brazilian Kitchen” is that Leticia goes beyond the classics, and brings very creative dishes to the table, like “caipirinha risotto”, a playful take on the great Italian dish, using the ingredients of Brazil’s signature drink: pinga and lime juice.

Want some more teasers? Red pepper and Brazil nut pesto, sole with coconut ginger sauce, tilapia with acai’ sauce, dulce de leche molten cake, Passion fruit cannoli… many wonderful temptations to cook and enjoy!

If you are curious about Brazilian cooking, this book is a must-have, so help the economy with a click... And, if you want to see Chef Leticia in action (she is also a great teacher!) jump here for a demonstration on making cod fritters.

Leticia, thank you for allowing me to publish your recipe, and I look forward to your next cookbook!

ONE YEAR AGO: Two-Stage Risotto

TWO YEARS AGO: Life is a matter of taste (and I still miss you, David Rosengarten!)

18Nov2011

A BLONDIE FOR CARMEN

Posted in Cookbook Reviews, Desserts, Sweets by sallybr

As I promised in my review of “Short and Sweet,” here is the recipe I selected to break in the book, so to speak. Most people would imagine I’d choose a bread, and indeed many were calling my name. But when I set my eyes on this recipe, I became like a Jack Russel chasing a squirrel, oblivious to everything else. How could I possibly resist? In his opening remarks, Dan states that if Carmen Miranda had some ripe bananas laying around, she would bake these blondies. The rich, white chocolate & banana cake hide little jewels inside, toffee bits made with Brazil nuts. Cannot go more Brazilian than that, unless you throw in some coffee, but I suppose that would give the blondie too much of a tan. 😉

BANANA BLONDIES
(published with permission from Dan Lepard)

to make the toffee:
75g superfine sugar
2 Tbs cold water
75g Brazil nuts, chopped

for the blondies:
100g unsalted butter
250g fine sugar
200g white chocolate
1 egg
2 ripe bananas, peeled (200-250g)
2 tsp vanilla extract
200g all purpose flour
¼ tsp baking powder

Lightly coat with oil a small baking sheet. Reserve. Place the fine sugar and the water inside a small pan. Turn the heat to medium, bring the water to a boil, and gently let it boil until the sugar turns a very dark golden color, but don’t let it burn. Immediately drop the chopped nuts inside, and stir with a silicone spatula or another appropriate tool. Carefully but quickly pour the mixture over the prepared baking sheet, spreading it around. Let it cool completely, then chop the toffee into small bits. Reserve.

Resist the temptation to try the toffee. Do not touch it!

Line the base and sides of an 8 inch (20 cm) square baking dish with parchment paper and heat the oven to 375 F. If using a non-stick pan you can skip the parchment paper, but coat the pan with a little butter to prevent sticky issues.

Heat the butter and white chocolate stirring gently in a pan over very low heat until melted (or use the microwave in short 10 second cycles of heating), then transfer to a medium size bowl. Add the remaining (250g) sugar and beat with the egg, bananas and vanilla until smooth. Sift the flour and baking powder, add to the batter together with the toffee bits, folding it all gently.

Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish and bake for about 35 minutes, until golden on top. If you shake the pan slightly, the center portion should still be slightly wobbly, but mostly set. Cool it completely before slicing in small squares.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

This was my first time making toffee, and quite likely the first time tasting some made from scratch. I had no idea it would be so amazing! I am not that fond of Brazil nuts, so I tried a small bite of the toffee to decide whether to add it or skip it. The stars in the sky had never been so bright! It was unbelievably tasty: sweet, crunchy, nutty, enough to make me lose all my composure and disregard my own motto of “everything in moderation.” Moderation and this toffee don’t match.

Back to the blondies. These are certainly worthy of Carmen Miranda‘s approval, tropical bits of tender cake, with intense banana flavor, the creaminess of the white chocolate, and the sweet crunch of the toffee surprising the palate at every bite.

Pointers for success: Check the weight of the banana(s) so that you don’t go over the 250g mark. Do not use over-ripe bananas from the freezer, because they tend to release too much liquid and the cake may not set properly.

Here’s what Carmen would tell you:

Make a double batch of the toffee. Sprinkle some over vanilla ice cream.
Close your eyes and take a spoonful.
Repeat.

Carmen Miranda (1909-1955)

ONE YEAR AGO: Show-stopping Spaghetti and Meatballs

TWO YEARS AGO: Magical Lamb Stew with Parsnips, Prunes, and Chickpeas

15Nov2011

SHORT AND SWEET

Posted in Cookbook Reviews, General by sallybr

No, this is not an autobiographic post! 😉 Even though I like to think the name fits me to a T, “Short and Sweet” is actually Dan Lepard’s new cookbook. The moment I learned of its upcoming publication, I pre-ordered it at amazon.uk. Do I live in England? No, not even close. Would I wait for its US printing? No way! And I am thrilled to have it.

My first surprise was its size: 561 pages! On the cover, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall summarizes my own impression after a couple of very late nights reading it: “Dan demystifies the baker’s art… all kinds of seductive treats become instantly achievable.” This is the essence of Dan Lepard, particularly evident on the subject he is best known for: breads. He dedicates the first 100 pages of the book to them, starting with a must-read introduction that covers all the basics, from flour to yeast, proofing temperature, kneading, shaping and baking. One by one, he destroys all the misconceptions and the rigid (often snobbish) advice so widespread in many publications by other authors. Then he offers a long list of recipes for white loaves, whole wheat, rye, quick breads, rolls, flat breads, wrapping up the chapter with some sweet and fruit breads, and a quick tutorial on how to make a sourdough starter. In one of the recipes, called “Flash Loaf,” Dan puts all his expertise into designing a recipe that will give you a fantastic loaf of bread in two hours from start to finish. I have it on my list to try in the near future.

The second chapter of the book is dedicated to cakes (my nemesis). Once again, he introduces the subject by going over the ingredients and techniques, and even though I always get a rapid pulse while reading about cakes, by the end of the introduction I felt I could tackle any of the recipes that followed. That’s probably not a smart thing to say, considering some of the messy situations I’ve faced in the past. Some examples included in this section are: Apple, Walnut & Custard Cake (the photo is enough to make me swoon), Cinnamon Cake with Blackberries (oh, my!), Brown Sugar Chocolate Cake (sigh), Caramel Christmas Cake (double sigh).

Next in line is a full chapter on “Small Things.” These are small like Chocolate Custard Muffins…. Blueberry Creme Fraiche Cupcakes…. Pumpkin Ginger Cupcakes…. Madeleines….Sweet Buttermilk Scones…. you get the picture.

Biscuits & Cookies follow the party. As in every chapter, an initial introduction helps set the mind frame for the recipes ahead. If titles such as Passion Fruit Melting Moments, Banana Fudge Cookies, Ginger Macadamia Biscuits, Blue Cheese and Oatmeal Biscuits appeal to you, you’ll have enough to bake for a long time thanks to those 38 pages of goodies.

A small chapter for doughnuts, batters, and babas, assembled together because, as Dan puts it “they are eaten the moment they’re golden and set after cooking….” Doughnuts, blinis, pancakes, the famous Crepe Suzette Tour d’Argent (that one brought me memories of an outstanding dinner with my beloved back in 2003), closing with babas (a treat I’ve never had, but after Dan’s description I wish I had a few right in front of me right now! ).

Next in line comes “Sugar Sugar.” Cute name for an impressive collection of techniques and recipes, the chapter opens with Making Caramel, and I must transcribe Dan’s remark about it: “be careful and organised and stay relaxed.” I might just print this phrase and frame it. 😉 Butter Caramels, Olive Oil and Black Pepper Caramels, Vanilla Fudge, Chocolate Truffle Cubes… A full section on icing, sweet sauces, and a few ice cream options close this sweet chapter.

Desserts comes next. Whoever is afraid of making tarts must get this book and indulge in this chapter. By the time you are done reading his “tips and techniques,” you’ll want to get into the kitchen and put in practice all his sensible advice. A few teasers for you: Malted Chocolate and Caramel Tart, Banana Caramel Cream Pie, Soft Crust Apple Pie, Black Forest Eclairs (I’ve always wanted to make eclairs, will definitely try this recipe), Prune and Armagnac Sponge Puddings, Blueberry Cocoa Meringue Pie…

If you think that’s all, then you would be wrong. The final chapter assembles a series of savory recipes such as Ham, Egg, and Potato Pie, Sweet Potato Crescents, Goat’s Cheese and Celeriac Tart, Black Olive Gougeres (triple sigh by Sally, the Kalamata Cheerleader), and many savory doughs, including Dan’s take on a few types of pizza dough.

One very nice touch is the index in outline form, with minor headings in bold. It’s a simple detail that makes finding recipes a lot easier!

Just as his previous book, “The Handmade Loaf,” I can’t recommend “Short and Sweet” highly enough. Together, these two books cover all the techniques and recipes to keep a baker busy and happy. Phil, who rarely opens a cookbook, saw it on the kitchen counter and started flipping through the pages. His words: “…this book is great! In just a quick glance I see at least 30 recipes you must make for us, I mean….. for the students in the lab, of course!” 😉

If you want to order the book, click here…

If you want to follow the progress of people baking all recipes in it, click here for the Sweet and Tweet Challenge…

If, like me, you can never get enough recipes from Dan, check his column at The Guardian by clicking here, or his discussion forum.

If you want to know which recipe I chose to inaugurate his book…
come back for my next post… 😉

ONE YEAR AGO: Ciabatta, a Classic Italian Bread

TWO YEARS AGO: Portuguese Sweet Bread

8Jul2011

RADICALLY SIMPLE

Posted in Cookbook Reviews, Pasta & Noodles by sallybr

I’ve owned plenty of cookbooks in my lifetime. More than I need, more than I’ll ever be able to cook from, even if I tried a new recipe every day and lived to 105 years old. Seasoned cookbook enthusiast that I am, my next statement may surprise you, but don’t take it lightly: Radically Simple by Rozanne Gold is my favorite. Ever! No other book tempts me to cook every single recipe within it, as this one does. All her recipes are appealing, not for their simplicity, but because she always transforms a few ingredients into something special, something different, something unique and enticing. Take this humble orzo, for example, and dress it up just right.

CARROT “NIB” ORZO
(reprinted with permission from Rozanne Gold)

6 oz baby carrots
2Tbs butter
8 oz orzo pasta
1 + 1/2 cups chicken stock
1 to 1 + 1/2 cup water
1 garlic clove
salt and pepper
1/4 cup Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
1/2 cup chopped chives, divided (I used parsley)

Place the baby carrots in the bowl of a food processor and process a few times, until the pieces are a little bigger than the grains of orzo.

Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the orzo and carrots, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes stirring often, until the pasta starts to get a golden color and is fragrant. Add the chicken stock, 3/4 of the water, the garlic clove squeezed through a press, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is almost all absorbed and the pasta is tender, about 12 minutes. You may or may not need to add all the water. Add the Parmigiano cheese, 1/3 cup of the chives, and gently mix. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, garnish with the remaining chives, and…

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

Comments: If all recipes in this cookbook please me as much as this one, it will be hard to cook from a different source! 😉 Toasting the orzo and treating it like Arborio rice in a risotto preparation considerably changes the texture of the pasta. Orzo has a tendency to be a bit “slippery”, but not in this dish: it feels wholesome, binding nicely with the other components. The bits of carrots give a hint of sweetness and add a lot to the dish. I had to exert extreme self-control to put the leftovers in the fridge, instead of leaving them in front of us while we talked after dinner. Those can be very caloric conversations!

Radically Simple is a must-have if you love great food, with interesting twists in the preparation. A pasta that cooks in the oven without ever seeing a drop of water? It’s in there. Using beets to make a veggie stock with unique color and flavor? It’s there too. So, if you haven’t done so already, then order your copy now, and the moment it reaches your home lay on a comfy sofa, and savor it… 😉

ONE YEAR AGO: A Sticky Situation

TWO YEARS AGO: The Garden