A SOUP WITH MEMORIES OF LOS ANGELES

During our sabbatical  year at UCLA, we often went to a restaurant in our  street, Beverly Glen Blvd, right at its junction with Mulholland Drive.  It was a small Italian restaurant called Fabrocini’s, almost hidden in a little corner, but always packed with folks from the neighborhood. The restaurant is affordable (for L.A. standards, that is), has an extensive menu, and the moment you sit at the table the waiter greets you with a small bowl of their focaccia.  Interestingly, each time we went there, the focaccia was just a little different, as if the baker loved to improvise.  We were obviously hooked!

One evening I was not very hungry and ordered a small bowl of their stracciatella soup for my dinner.   From the first spoonful, I was equally hooked.  Their version had spinach and a little pasta added to the basic egg-drop preparation, in a light and delicious broth.  I loved it so much that before we left L.A. I wrote an email asking for the recipe, but they never even replied to it…  😦      Undeterred, I went on my own quest to make it at home, and finally found a good version on a Food and Wine magazine.

SPINACH STRACCIATELLA SOUP
(adapted from Food and Wine magazine)

1 cup tubetti, ditalini or other small pasta
1 quart chicken stock, preferably home made (recipe follows)
1 garlic clove, cut in 4 pieces
3- 4 ounces baby spinach
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 large eggs, beaten
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Cook the pasta in a pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain well.

In a saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer with the garlic; simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the garlic using a slotted spoon, add the pasta and spinach and cook over medium heat until the spinach wilts. Season with salt and pepper. Gently stir in the eggs, breaking them into long strands. Simmer the soup until the eggs are just firm, about 1 minute. Stir in the Parmigiano cheese. Ladle the soup into bowls, and serve with additional cheese grated on top.

to print the recipe, click here

ONE HOUR CHICKEN STOCK
(adapted from Mark Bittman, and other sources)

8 – 10 chicken wings
10 cups water
1 onion, cut in half
4 whole cloves
6 black peppercorns
4 green onions, cut in half
1 piece of ginger (1/2 inch thick)
1 bay leaf

Stuck 2 cloves into each onion half, add all ingredients to a large stock pot, bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat to low, and cook, uncovered for 1 hour and 15 minutes.  Remove the layer of foam that eventually floats to the surface during the initial stage of cooking, using a slotted spoon.

Drain the stock, discard all vegetables and meat.   Let it cool slightly, refrigerate, and remove the congealed fat from the surface before using.  Freeze 1 or 2 cup aliquots.   Season with salt and  appropriate spices when using for soups, risottos, or sauces.

to print this recipe, click here

The beginning…..

Almost at the end of cooking….

The reward…  Liquid culinary gold!

I am no food snob, in the sense that I use store-bought chicken stock on a regular basis.  However, for this soup to be really special, I went the extra mile and made my own.  I’ve made many types of chicken stock in the past, using chicken bones, or a whole chicken.  But once I found this shortcut version at Bittman’s book “From Simple to Spectacular,”  I adapted it to my taste and it’s been my method of choice because it is fast and produces incredibly rich  and dense stock.    Usually I make my first batch when the weather turns cold, and save a few cups in the freezer.

This simple soup, with very few ingredients, definitely benefits from a home made stock, but in a pinch, I’d still use a good quality store-bought version.  Do what suits you best, but make this soup, it’s a winner… 😉

ONE YEAR AGO: Sabu’s Spicy Coconut Chicken

TWO YEARS AGO: Poolish Baguettes

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SECRET RECIPE CLUB: PASTA E FAGIOLI

I am so excited about this post, because it’s my first time taking part of “The Secret Recipe Club”.  If you haven’t heard about it, it is a group event in which each month you are assigned one food blog to cook a recipe from and another blogger will be matched with your blog.  The assignments are distributed a few weeks in advance, but every post must be published on the exact same day and  at the exact same time!  How cool is that?  😉

This event grew so much that now they have 4 different groups with “reveal days” a week apart.  Today is THE DAY for group D. By the way, we are all newbies in this group, this is the first reveal for our group.  I was assigned the blog Tami’s Kitchen Table Talk, and you can visit her nice virtual spot by jumping here.  Tami not only is a member of The Secret Recipe Club, but the hostess of group D, so of course it added a lot of hyperventilation to my first time in the event.  Getting to cook from your boss’ blog, so to speak…  WOW!

Tami has two kids, 8 and 13 years old, so her blog is perfect for those with young kids and/or teenagers, who must face all the stresses of an extra-busy life, and still bring a nice meal to the table.  In her blog, you will find a lot of sweets, cookies, and countless options to feed the whole family.   I spent quite a bit of time reading it, and finally decided to make her “Pasta e Fagioli”.  First, because it is a classic Italian recipe I’ve always wanted to try. And second, because the weather is perfect for it right now. Since I have no choice but accept that the days of temps in the upper 90’s are over, I might as well make soups and stews…  😉

PASTA E FAGIOLI
(slightly modified from Tami’s Kitchen Table Talk)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup pancetta, diced
2 (4 to 6-inch) sprigs rosemary, left intact
1 tsp dried thyme leaves
1 large fresh bay leaf
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 small carrots, finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, chopped
salt and pepper
1 (15 ounce) can cannellini beans
1 + 1/2 cups crushed tomatoes  (with juices)
2 cups water
1 quart chicken stock
1 + 1/2 cups ditalini pasta  (I used half ditalini, half elbows)
grated Parmigiano cheese for serving

Heat a deep pot over medium high heat and add oil and pancetta.  Cook until the pancetta pieces are golden brown, add the rosemary, thyme, bay leaf, chopped veggies and garlic.   Season everything lightly with salt and pepper (pancetta is already quite salty, so keep that in mind).

Saute everything together for a couple of minutes, add the beans, crushed tomatoes, water, and chicken stock.  Increase heat to high, when boiling add the pasta, and reduce to medium heat.   Cook stirring every once in a while, until the pasta is al dente (8 to 10 minutes).  Remove the rosemary stems and the bay leaf before serving.

Laddle soup on bowls, and serve with a nice piece of bread, with plenty of cheese grated on top.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

This was a perfect meal for an unexpectedly chilly evening, in which we almost had to turn our heating system on.   One of the reasons we didn’t was this warm and soothing soup, that made us feel all cozy and comfy.  Thanks, Tami! Leftovers  were my lunch for the two following days. On the last day, it became almost a regular pasta dish, I did not add additional liquid, just shaved some more cheese on top and enjoyed it immensely that way too.   The beans give extra creaminess and substance to the dish,  and the pancetta a subtle “meaty” presence.

If you want to go make this soup vegetarian-friendly, simply omit the pancetta, and  use vegetable stock instead of chicken broth.  It will still be wonderful, I guarantee it.

Tami, it was nice to “meet” you through this event, I will be  reading your culinary adventures from now on!

Note added after publication: at the end of this post you will find a little icon with “Links in collection” – just click on it to see the full list of blog posts from our group, all published this morning, at 7am US central time. And if you want to see who got my blog, click here to visit Jenni’s siteShe made one of my favorite recipes! 😉

ONE YEAR AGO: Mesmerizing Lemon Bars

TWO YEARS AGO: Pizza Napoletana

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SIMPLY SOBA

As the proud owner of too many cookbooks,  I try to give them priority when searching for culinary inspiration, but every once in a while a blogger’s recipe blows away the competition, I won’t rest until I make it.   A beautiful photography is sure nice, but I am primarily taken by the writing along the recipe, especially if it conveys more than just cooking.

The moment I read Rosa’s write up on this post while listening to the beautiful song in the background, I knew I was going to make – and love – those noodles.  The few ingredients come together in what seems like an almost austere preparation, but refrain from the temptation of adding more stuff to it.  Accept its  Zen flow, and keep it simple.

COLD SOBA NOODLES
(adapted from Rosa’s Yummy Yums blog)

2 bundles of buckwheat noodles (approximately 80 g each)
4 Tbs soy sauce (preferably Kikkoman)
1 + 1/2 Tbs dark sesame oil
2 + 1/2 Tbs rice vinegar (unseasoned)
1 + 1/2 Tsp Wasabi paste
3 Tsps fresh ginger, chopped
2  + 1/2 Tbs sesame seeds, roasted
2 medium carrots, cut into thin matchtsicks
1/2 medium cucumber, cut into thin matchsticks

In a large pan, bring salted water to boil, add the noodles, and simmer for about 4 minutes, or according to the package directions.  When the noodles are cooked, drain and immediately run cold water over them. Transfer the noodles to a bowl as you finish preparing the other ingredients.

Make the dressing by whisking together in a small bowl the sesame oil, soy sauce, rice vinegar, wasabi, and ginger.  Add to the noodles, tossing to combine.  Add the toasted sesame seeds, and mix gently. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes.

When ready to serve, add the carrot and cucumber, mix gently, sprinkle with more sesame seeds if you so desire.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

Comments: To cut the veggies I used one of these small  gadgets that work very well and are simple to wash.  It makes long ribbons that mimic the shape of the noodles, perfect for this dish.

This recipe will be part of our regular rotation from now on.  Leftovers were delicious next day, although the cucumber and the carrots lose their crispness after being in the dressing overnight.  It didn’t bother me at all, but you can always cut a little more of the veggies and add to your plate.   Buckwheat noodles seem to perform a little magic: they satisfy but never make you feel too full.  My favorite type of noodles, hands down.

Rosa, a big thank you for inspiring me with your “Lesson in Zen”    😉

ONE YEAR AGO: Griddle-Fried Filet of Petrale Sole

TWO YEARS AGO: Barm Bread (a must-bake bread!)

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GRILLING TOMATOES

Our friends and neighbors who are also ultra-prolific gardeners went away on a trip and gave us a load of tomatoes before their departure. Some were big, heavy, and seemed very juicy, others were on a smallish side. I wanted to do something special with our gift, and went on a road never traveled before by making a grilled tomato sauce.  A final touch was wilting some arugula in it.  I will be traveling around this road on a regular basis from now on, this was a tasty sauce, and so simple to put together!


ORECHIETTE WITH GRILLED TOMATO SAUCE AND ARUGULA

(from the Bewitching Kitchen)

8 to 10 tomatoes, preferably from a friend’s garden
a little olive oil
salt and pepper
1 shallot, finely diced
2 cups of arugula
Orechiette pasta
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, grated

Rub the tomatoes with a little olive oil, sprinkle salt and pepper, and place on a hot grill until the skin gets nicely charred. Turn them every few minutes to get grill marks on all sides.   Different sizes of tomatoes will be ready at different times (obviously), so remove them from the grill accordingly.  Take the stem and central core out, place the flesh, skin, and seeds in a food processor and process until smooth, or retaining some chunks, if you prefer.

Saute the diced shallot in olive oil with a little salt and pepper until golden.  Add the processed tomatoes, and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, until it gets the consistency  you like.  Season with more salt and pepper if needed, and in the final couple of minutes add the arugula, cooking gently until it wilts.

Meanwhile, cook the orechiette pasta according to the package instructions, drain, and mix with the sauce, warming everything together for a few minutes.  Add to a serving bowl, and shave some Parmigiano on top.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

Comments: All modesty aside, this sauce was a perfect use for tomatoes that were not uniform in size and type, all I had to do was pay attention to the grill and remove each one as they got done. Grilled tomato sauce would work well on many venues: as a topping for pizza, bruschetta, over a mild, grilled fish, or as a basis for pasta sauces with different herbs and/or greens.   Not bad as a starting point for soup, I suppose, although the idea of soup with the heat wave we are having is not very appealing.  I never quite got the taste for cold soups, maybe next year I’ll explore that untraveled road.  😉

ONE YEAR AGO Twice-baked goat cheese souffles

TWO YEARS AGO:  Hearts of Palm Pie

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ISRAELI COUSCOUS SALAD

For a long time Israeli couscous was hard to find, and I only enjoyed it in restaurants, or by placing special orders online.  Now it’s available almost everywhere!   Even one store in our small town carries it in bulk, so I buy as little or as much as I want.  Heads up: when you  buy Israeli couscous in bulk, make sure to tie the plastic bag very well, and handle it with loving care.  Those cute little balls of semolina flour travel long distances when spilled on the floor. It’s amazing the lessons a cook learns! 😉

Israeli couscous has an interesting history. It indeed originated in Israel,  in the 50’s,  with the name of “ptitim.”  It was conceived in a time of austerity, as an attempt to deal with the scarcity of food, including the almost complete disappearance of rice.  Back in Israel it remains a popular food item for kids, available in all sorts of cute shapes, like stars and hearts, to please the young audience.  Abroad, Israeli couscous became a trendy gourmet ingredient, as we all know well.  It’s versatile and has less tendency to form lumps than regular couscous. It can be dressed up in countless ways and it’s equally tasty warm or cold, as in this delicious salad, adapted from a recent issue of Food and Wine.

ISRAELI COUSCOUS SALAD WITH ARUGULA PESTO
(adapted from Food and Wine magazine)

6 cups packed arugula (6 ounces)
2 cups Israeli couscous (12 ounces)
2 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup full fat yoghurt  (or low fat if you prefer)
1/4 cup pine nuts
1 garlic clove, chopped
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup red cherry tomatoes, halved
1 English cucumber, peeled and diced

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the 6 cups of arugula and blanch for 10 seconds. With a slotted spoon, transfer the arugula to a colander. Rinse under cold water to stop the cooking, drain well and reserve.

Add the couscous to the boiling water and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 8 to 10 minutes.  Taste to make sure you don’t overcook it.  Drain, and spread on a large baking sheet, drizzling with a very small amount of olive oil (use a spray bottle if you have it) to prevent the little balls from sticking. Let it cool to room temperature.

In a small skillet, toast the pine nuts over moderate heat, tossing, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Let cool.

Squeeze the excess water from the arugula, coarsely chop it, and place it in the bowl of a food processor. Transfer the arugula to a food processor. Add the pine nuts, garlic, cheese and the 2 Tbs of olive oil, processing until the arugula and pine nuts are chopped. Immediately add the yogurt, process until smooth, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer the couscous to a large serving bowl and stir in some of the pesto, using as much or as little as you like.  Gently fold in the tomatoes and cucumber pieces.  Adjust seasoning, and….

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

Comments:  We loved this recipe!   And I’m especially happy about my modifications of the arugula pesto.  Purists may roll their eyes, but I reduced the fat content of this baby to levels previously unknown to mankind!  Imagine my audacity, going from 1/2 cup of olive oil in the original recipe to 2 Tbs  olive oil  + 1/3 cup of yogurt!  That, my friends, is a drop from 954 calories down to 175.   I am not a fat-o-phobe, but I’ve played with yogurt and buttermilk long enough to learn that they often substitute well for oil, as illustrated in this example: the acidity in the yogurt kept the arugula bright and it added an interesting sharpness to the pesto.   Of course, you may also ignore my adaptation and use the full amount of olive oil. As Emeril Lagasse says, “…you won’t hurt  my feelings.”   😉

Olive oil is one of the healthiest options among fats, but any fat packs a huge load of calories.  If you struggle with weight issues (who doesn’t?), then be attentive to the amount of olive oil in your recipes and restaurant foods.  Salads are deceptively high in calories. Consider asking for dressing on the side, and use it sparingly.  Another dangerous option that seems healthy and light:   buffet platters of grilled veggies, such as eggplant and zucchini. They are  prepared with a substantial amount of olive oil, and eggplant in particular soaks it up like a sponge.  Be aware, make the right choices, and exercise portion control.  When you’re cooking at home try my low-cal pesto and see what you think.  It’s good to splurge with the real thing sometimes, but it’s also wonderful to find an alternative that makes you feel good when you leave the table.  😉

ONE YEAR AGO:  Heavenly Home-made Fromage Blanc

TWO YEARS AGO:  Pasta with Fresh Tomato Sauce

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