MICHAEL SYMON’S “LIVE TO COOK”

Posted in Side dishes, Veggies by sallybr

For the past 5 years, my list of “New Year Resolutions” always began with the statement: “No cookbooks this year.” I usually managed to stick with it for a few months, until about March, which was no small feat considering that January and February constitute almost 60 days!

This year I felt particularly strong, but fate played a cruel trick against my good intentions. One morning I was minding my own business when an alert popped up “You’ve got new mail,” with the words “Congratulations” and “winner” in the subject line, but this time it wasn’t spam… 😉

Believe it or not, I won a cookbook! Last November Carol, from Alinea at Home, launched a fundraiser for “Share Our Strength”, and six of her lucky readers were rewarded with a cookbook – including me (a hopeless cookbook-addict!).

My prize was “Live to Cook,” by Michael Symon, the hugely popular chef from Cleveland, written together with Michael Ruhlman. I’d already heard a lot of praise for the book, and I could hardly wait to enjoy it!

Carol’s note, “You will love to cook from it!” was right on. This cookbook is instantly exciting, because it’s more than a collection of recipes. Michael shares his “food memories,” the experiences that helped him become the chef he is today. Cooking seasonally and using the best ingredients is just the beginning. Every recipe has a story behind it, often family tales, but also plenty about his professional career. Basically, it’s my favorite kind of cookbook.

Of course, I made something right away! His zucchini fritters caught my attention because I had both zucchini and feta cheese in the fridge. They were simple to prepare and delicious!

ZUCCHINI FRITTERS WITH FETA AND DILL
(adapted from Michael Symmon’s Live to Cook)

2 medium zucchini
1 tsp kosher salt
1 + 1/2 Tbs fresh dill, finely minced
1 large green onion, thinly sliced
1 tsp minced garlic
1/4 tsp ground black pepper
4 ounces crumbled feta cheese
zest of 1 lemon
1 large egg
3 Tbs all purpose flour
canola oil

Cut off the ends of the zucchini and grate them using the large holes of a grater, right over a kitchen towel. Sprinkle the kosher salt on top, twist the towel around it, and place it inside a bowl while you prepare the rest of the ingredients (a lot of liquid will drain from the zucchini).

Place the feta cheese in another bowl, add the dill, garlic, green onion, black pepper and the lemon zest. Squeeze the zucchini by twisting the towel around it over the sink until all liquid is released. Add the zucchini to the bowl, mix well, and add the egg and flour, mixing until fully combined.

Heat enough oil in a frying pan to reach 1/4 inch height. Form small fritters using 1/4 cup measure (or eye-ball it). Cook the first side until brown before flipping the fritters over. Drain on paper towels.

Transfer the fritters to a serving platter. Garnish with yogurt sauce if you want (I omitted this step and served them plain), surrounded by small grape tomatoes and fresh dill).

ENJOY!

To print the recipe, click here

Comments: I often dislike frying because of the splatters (I’ve never met a splatter screen that I like) and the leftover oil. But, this recipe (just like the mandioca frita) is worth the trouble. The fritters were delicate and flavorful alongside grilled salmon and plain white rice. It was a weeknight meal made special by Michael Symon…

CANTINHO BRASILEIRO

CROQUETES DE ABOBRINHA COM FETA E ENDRO

2 abobrinhas média
1 colher de cha’ de sal
1 + 1 / 2 colheres de sopa de endro fresco, picado
1 cebolinha, cortada em fatias finas
1 colher de chá de alho picado
1/4 de colher de cha’ de pimenta do reino moida
1/2 xicara de queijo feta em pedacinhos
raspas de 1 limão
1 ovo
3 colheres de sopa de farinha de trigo
óleo vegetal para fritura

Corte as extremidades das abobrinhas e rale sobre um pano de prato. Polvilhe com o sal, envolva com o pano, e coloque em uma tigela enquanto você prepara o resto dos ingredientes (uma boa quantidade de liquido vai escorrer da abobrinha).

Coloque o queijo feta em outra tigela, acrescente o endro, alho, cebolinha, pimenta do reino e as raspas de limão. Esprema bem a abobrinha torcendo o pano, ate’ que todo o liquido seja eliminado. Adicione a abobrinha na tigela, misture bem e acrescente o ovo e a farinha, mexendo até ficar bem incorporado.

Aqueça óleo em uma frigideira; forme pequenos bolinhos com cerca de 1/4 de xicara da mistura de abobrinha, ou com a quantidade que voce preferir. Cozinhe o primeiro lado até que fique bem dourado antes de fritar o segundo lado. Escorra em papel absorvente.

Transfira os bolinhos para o prato em que serao servidos. Sirva com molho de iogurte se quiser; eu preferi omitir o molho, e servi rodeado de tomates-cereja e raminhos de endro.

17Jan2010

MANDIOCA FRITA 101: FRIED YUCCA ROOT

Posted in Brazilian cooking, Side dishes, Veggies by sallybr

I suspect that many people have never tried it, and that those who saw manioc root for sale didn’t take it home, because it looks too strange and intimidating. That’s all quite sad, because it means they’re missing this: the Brazilian version of french fries.

For many Brazilians, “mandioca frita” is even better than french fries. I know, it sounds heretical, but trust me – once you try it you will be hooked. Crunchy outside, creamy inside, with a flavor that can only be described as addictive. I won’t lie to you, mandioca frita takes some effort. But if you follow my instructions you won’t regret it.

Manioc, also known as cassava and yucca, is a major ingredient in many cuisines of the world. You can read all about it here.

To cook the manioc, you first must peel it, a task that requires a good quality veggie peeler. The root is often sold covered with a thin layer of paraffin, but don’t worry about it, just peel the brown skin to reveal the white root underneath (Don’t even consider feeding the peel to your garbage disposal – you’ve been warned!).

Here’s a before and after shot…

Next, using a big, sharp knife and some caution cut it into pieces: it’s a reasonably tough root….

… now you’re ready to begin cooking. Fill a large pan with slightly salted water, and place the pieces of manioc inside. Bring it to a boil, reduce the heat and allow the pieces to cook until they’re tender, easily pierced with a fork (the time is somewhat unpredictable, anywhere from 25 to 50 minutes). Some pieces might burst open; just remove them from the water. In this photo you can see what they look like when ready.

Cooking manioc is a labor of love. Not all the pieces will be ready at the same time, and some pieces might never become tender. In Brazil, “mandioca” is sold in street markets as well as grocery stores, and similar to what happens in France, once you establish a relationship with a particular seller in your neighborhood, you’ll always have great quality mandioca. 😉

Once you cook it, you’ll notice a tough “string” in the very center of the root: remove it before frying. It’s too tough to eat, although it won’t hurt you if you don’t remove it.

Here in the US I’ve found excellent manioc root in Asian markets, but as you can see from the next photo, in the same batch I had a mixture of varieties (white and yellow), something that never happens in Brazil, because they would be sold separately. Their taste is almost identical, although in my family you might witness heated discussions defending the qualities of one kind over another. To avoid taking sides, I pledge endless love for both.

At this point you can fry them right away or save them for later. I normally cook a large batch, fry as many as we want for dinner, and then freeze the rest. If you have a vac-saver system, you can use it to store the cooked manioc root. When you want to fry them, simply remove from the freezer and let them sit for half an hour; no need to even completely defrost them, although I wouldn’t go straight from frozen into the hot oil.

To fry the cooked pieces, add 1/2 inch of vegetable oil to a large skillet and heat it until the manioc sizzles when it touches the oil. Fry as many pieces as will fit without crowding, and allow the first side to brown before moving them around, or they’ll get a bit greasy. When finished frying, put them on absorbent paper and add some salt to taste.

Now, close your eyes, and dream of a tropical beach, coconut trees, a hammock, and perhaps a refreshing “caipirinha” with your mandioca frita!

19Dec2009

You say CAKE, they say “CAAK”

Posted in Appetizers, Side dishes, Veggies by sallybr

Or…”I say tomato, you say tomaato.” When we lived in Paris our great friend and co-worker sometimes invited us for dinner at his place. We relished those special evenings with he and his wife, who is a beautiful, elegant French woman, and a fantastic cook. The French culture is quite private, so an invitation to dine in someone’s home is a true gesture of friendship. Before the meal she often prepared some “cake“. Cake? To start a meal? Well, it wasn’t a typical American cake, which in France would be a “gateau“. Instead, this kind of cake (which the French pronounce more or less as “caak” ) is a rich and savory loaf with the approximate texture of a banana bread, usually leavened with baking powder.

We loved those dinners, from the first to the last course (the latter always being a selection of cheeses), but the opening “cakes” were likely my favorite part. When I left France I brought along photocopies of her recipes, and also managed to buy two cookbooks that exclusively describe those savory loaves. Yes, that’s how much I loved them! So, I dedicate this post to our friends, Alain and Corinne!

This version comes from “Sophie’s Sweet and Savory Loaves.” It’s a delicious blend of zucchini and feta cheese. As you can see from the photo, I leave the feta in large chunks… for little bursts of sharpness and flavor.

FETA CHEESE-ZUCCHINI LOAF
(adapted from Sophie’s recipe)

2 T olive oil
1 medium zucchini, cut in 1/3-in slices
3 large eggs
1 cup + 2 T all purpose flour, sifted
1 + 3/4 tsp baking powder
salt and black pepper to taste
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1/2 cup milk, hot
1 cup grated Gruyere cheese
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
3 T cilantro leaves, minced

Heat the oven to 350F. Grease a loaf pan with butter or shortening.

Heat the olive oil in a skillet and saute the slices of zucchini until they get soft and golden on both sides. Remove from the pan, drain over paper towels to remove excess fat. Reserve.

Combine the eggs, flour, baking powder, 2 pinches of salt and pepper, and beat with an electric mixer until well combined. Add the hot milk and the oil, and beat until smooth. Add the Gruyere cheese, zucchini, feta, and cilantro, mixing well with a wooden spoon or spatula.

Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan, bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack, allow it to cool for 15 minutes, then remove the loaf from the pan. Serve warm or at room temperature.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

Comments: Savory cakes embellish the cooking repertoire of anyone interested in entertaining, potlucks, picnics, brunches, or late night munchies… They are simple to make, and you can add almost anything you wish in the basic mix. Leftover roast chicken? Dice it and add it, maybe with some roasted red peppers and basil… Smoked salmon, ham, black olives, sundried tomatoes, roasted eggplant… they all have their place in such recipes. Just combine flavors that match together, to the delight of your guests.

For this loaf, I prepared the zucchini the day before and saved it in the fridge. Next day, I only had to assemble the ingredients…
… eggs, milk, oil, flour, feta cheese, sauteed zucchini…

Add them to the prepared loaf pan….

and bake it!

Allow the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes, remove it, slice it, and serve it to your lucky guests!

17Oct2009

POTATO AND LEEK BRAISE

Posted in Side dishes, Veggies by sallybr

This recipe comes from “All About Braising“, by Molly Stevens. My copy sits patiently waiting on the shelf during the hot summer months, knowing that when Fall arrives, it will come out to play again.

For the first braise of the year, I chose a potato and leek dish, that starts as a braise, but almost turns into a gratin. I say almost because it’s quite a bit lighter. As Molly writes: “the recipe practically cooks itself“. All you do is cut the potatoes and leeks, assemble the dish, pop it into the oven and walk away.

THE SIMPLEST POTATO AND LEEK BRAISE
(adapted from Molly Stevens)

2 medium leeks (about 1 pound, white and light green parts only)
1 pound yellow potatoes (Yukon Gold)
butter for greasing the dish
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
pinch of nutmeg
salt and pepper
1 + 1/4 cup chicken stock, heated to almost boiling
1/4 cup half and half (or heavy whipping cream)

Heat oven to 325F.

Chop the leeks in 3/4 inch pieces, add them to a bowl of very cold water and wash them well to remove any clinging sand and grit. Drain. Repeat. Drain them well and add to a well buttered gratin type dish, preferably shallow (I used a 8 x 12 inch dish).

Peel the potatoes and cut them into 3/4 inch chunks. Add them to the dish with the leeks, season with thyme, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Toss with a spatula, spreading the potatoes in a single layer. Pour the hot stock over the mixture, cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil and place it in the oven.

Braise (cook covered in the oven) for 45 minutes. Remove the foil, stir the potatoes and leeks, check for the amount of liquid remaining. If it’s almost dry, cover again with foil; if the liquid is still about halfway up the sides of the dish, then leave it uncovered (as I did). Continue to braise for 20-25 minutes more.

Remove the dish from the oven, increase the temperature to 425F, stir the leeks and potatoes and pour in the half-and-half (or heavy cream). Return the dish to the oven, uncovered, and bake until bubbly and browned on top, about 25 minutes.

Let it rest for 10 minutes before serving.

ENJOY!

To print the recipe, click here

Comments: This dish could very well be defined as the braised version of the classic vichyssoise, one of the best soups ever. Serve it alongside any meat; roast chicken or prime rib are perfect. Lately I’ve been using half-and-half in place of heavy cream and it works for us. Molly dots the dish with butter before placing in the oven, I did not. Adapt it according to your own preferences.

7Oct2009

A SPECIAL DINNER FOR TWO…

Posted in Lamb, Side dishes, Weekend Dinners by sallybr

Sometimes (more often than I care to admit…) I buy things on impulse, without knowing exactly what to do with them. Last week I saw a New Zealand rack of lamb, and couldn’t resist it. I hid the package in the fridge, hoping to surprise my beloved with a special meal. I think his top three favorite dishes are Beef Wellington, rack of lamb, and grilled salmon….sushi and oysters on the halfshell are also strong contenders… At any rate, I knew the lamb would be well received!

Normally I’d simplify the preparation of a rack of lamb: salt and pepper, and nothing else. The meat is so flavorful, it shines on its own. However, a recipe in Ming Tsai’s book (Ming’s Master Recipes) changed my mind, as it had “Autumn” and “Romance” written all over it… 😉

CRANBERRY-TERIYAKI LAMB RACK with COUSCOUS SALAD
(adapted from Ming Tsai’s Master Recipes)

2 lamb racks
1 cup cranberry-teriyaki glaze (recipe below)
1 cup couscous, cooked
juice and zest of 1 lemon
1 T Dijon mustard
1/4 cup olive oil
3 scallions stalks, sliced (reserve green part for garnishing)
1/4 cup dried cranberries, coarsely chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Marinate the racks of lamb in the glaze for a couple of hours or overnight. Prepare a hot grill, remove lamb from the marinade and grill it to medium-rare. For our small racks of lamb, I grilled for 12 minutes, turning them halfway through. Allow the meat to rest for 5 minutes before slicing it between the bones.

Prepare the couscous salad…
Cook the couscous as instructed in the package, and reserve. In a large bowl, whisk together lemon juice, zest, and mustard. Slowly add the oil, still whisking, to form an emulsion, and season it with salt and pepper. Add the white part of the scallions, the cranberries and the cooked couscous, tossing well to combine.

To serve, place the couscous on a plate, top it with the lamb chops, garnish with scallion greens, and spoon some extra cranberry glaze on top of the lamb.

CRANBERRY-TERIYAKI GLAZE
1/8 cup plus 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 cup dried cranberries
1 shallot, sliced thin
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 cup cranberry juice
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup sugar
zest and juice of 1 orange
salt to taste

In a large saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil, add the dried cranberries, shallot slices and ginger and cook over high heat, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the cranberry juice, soy sauce, sugar, orange zest and juice and simmer over low heat until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Let it cool slightly and then transfer it to a blender.

Blend the sauce, adding the remaining olive oil with the machine running. Do not blend it until it is completely smooth, the sauce is supposed to contain little bits of cranberries. Taste and adjust seasoning; it keeps for 1 week refrigerated.

Couscous salad, a perfect match for the lamb…