TOUR DE FRANCE FINAL STAGE: PARIS


Last year I participated in an event with the goal of increasing awareness about cancer,  “The Taste of Yellow“, that was hosted by Barbara from Winos and Foodies.  Now I have the privilege of joining one of her other events:  food blogging along  the “Tour de France,” the premier bike race in the world!  This year   sixteen teams cruised, bounced and blasted through a 2,263 miles circuit that started in Rotterdam on July 3rd.  Each year the race takes a different route, but it always end in Paris, with the final stretch taking the athletes back and forth along the spectacular Avenue des Champs Elysees, between the sublime Place de la Concorde and the gorgeous Arch du Triomphe.  What a visual energy boost it is!  In Barbara’s “Tour de France 2010,”  bloggers posted their descriptions of the food traditions from each locale surrounding the individual stages.  You can enjoy this virtual tour  here.

I was thrilled when Barbara asked me to cover the final stage of the tour, because I love Paris so much! But was also quite nervous about it, because  she was originally going to write about it herself.  Talk about pressure!

So, I’ll start by sharing some thoughts on the City of Lights, and finish by offering the recipes of  three Parisian treats, hopefully as authentic as  La Tour Eiffel itself!

The Paris that everyone knows…
Even people who never set foot in Paris know about its cafes, restaurants, cheeses, baguettes and museums,  that create the aura of romance and charm permeating every corner of the city.  It’s a  favorite activity in Paris to sit outside at a cafe and indulge in people-watching on a pleasant day.  We always gravitate back to  Les Deux Magots and Cafe’ de Flore, that are situated almost next to each other in the shadow of the oldest church in Paris, St. Germain de Pres.

Not bad to enjoy a  cappucino, croissant or pain au chocolat, while staring in awe at the austere tower of the cathedral, provoking dreams of the middle ages, or the days when Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir sat at those very tables, maybe looking across the Boulevard St. Germain to the ultra-traditional Brasserie Lipp, where Hemingway or Modigliani sat and ate Alsatian food fit for the gods (that they were).

Flickr Creative Commons photo

The street markets… are pretty much a French institution.  Our favorite may be  on Rue Cler, in the 7eme arrondisement.  It only takes one stroll through the market to get anything and everything needed to prepare dinner, from the freshest seafood to the most perfect veggies, fruits, cheeses and chocolates.  And don’t forget to stop for a fine Sauternes or Bordeaux!  During the “R” months, fresh oysters from Bretagne will be  waiting for you, either live in the shells or shucked in seconds by the vendor’s expert hands.   If you just want to “window-shop,”  then grab a crepe made at the small stand halfway along the length of the market:  you’ll be amazed at how delicious it is.

Croissants…. are not French by birth, but they will always be associated with Paris.  A great croissant makes a soft crunch as you bite into it, and it covers your lips with tiny buttery flakes.  It’s messy, but you don’t want it any other way.   My favorite  (OK, one one of my favorites)  is from the Lenotre boulangerie in the 15th arrondisement, but good croissants are everywhere in Paris.   Ask for a “croissant pur beurre,” which excludes any lower-fat variations from your lips.  No point in having a croissant unless it comes loaded with buttery flavor and goodness.  You know, “moderation in moderation.”  ;-)

Macarons… Apparently, I’m the only human being who does not care for macarons (or macaroons,  the English spelling).  I apologize for this handicap, and hope you will still visit the Bewitching Kitchen after learning about it.   Nevertheless, they are a Parisian fever,  so I did my homework and learned that macaron lovers are crazy for those from  Pierre Herme‘s patisserie in the 15th arrondisement.  And if you want to make them at home, click here for a great tutorial!

Bread, cheese, and metro stations… have something in common:  wherever you are in Paris, they’ll all be within walking distance.  Baguettes are freshly baked around the clock, and nothing beats munching on one that’s still warm from the oven you stroll through the streets.   I always go for the “baguette tradition,” made according to precise specifications of the bread bakers syndicate: it has no illegal additives and its exclusively leavened with Saccaromyces cerevisiae (the famous “baker’s yeast”).   No corners are cut with these baguettes, and their taste and texture proves it.   But one cannot mention Parisien bread without also talking about Pain Poilane, and its famous bakery, where you can buy the huge four pound “boule” and enjoy it for days!


With a great bread, one needs some great cheese.  When I first lived alone in Paris, I developed a nice relationship with the cheesemonger near my apartment in the 15th.  Every week I would ask for my “usual suspects” (Brie de Meaux, Roquefort, and a camembert au lait cru), and she would pick a new one for me to try.   That was a happy year!  No, I wasn’t able to finish tasting all of these, but I had fun trying.

The Paris that not everybody knows about….
The bees in Paris are almost as busy as its lively streets, making some of the best honey around!  The largest beehives are in Jardin du Luxembourg and Parc George Brassens (site of a weekly book market that is also worth a visit).   But  smaller hives are on top of the Opera Garnier building, and also on the Hotel Eiffel Park.   Bees travel a maximum of 2 miles around the hive, and collect pollen from a large variety of flowers.  Parisian honey has a complex flavor, and even more “complex” price!  ;-)   Because production is small, the pots of Parisian honey sell like liquid gold.   When you are in town take a guided tour of the  beehive in Luxembourg, it’s a  must see.

Menu “Faim de nuit” (late night “munchies menu”) at La Coupole

photo from Wikipedia

One of the most famous restaurants in Paris offers an affordable dinner every evening starting at 10:30pm.  Why have dinner so late?  Well, when in France, do as the French do!  No sense going to sleep before 2am anyway!  La Coupole is always packed, a very popular choice not only for tourists, and not only for dining: in the basement you can dance the night away, following a tradition that spans many decades.

Wine, sure… but made in Paris? Mais oui! In the 17th century the vineyards of Paris were the most important in the country, covering a huge area of more than 100 thousand acres.  Later other regions started to produce wine, Paris turned into a metropolis, and the vines almost completely disappeared.  Almost, but not quite.  Small production still takes place in vines located in Montmartre (Clos Montmartre) and a few other spots around town.  With very few exceptions, the wine produced in Paris cannot be commercialized.  This site is an interesting read (in French).

photo from Wikimedia Commons

Now, the most important question:  what to cook at home to celebrate Paris?  Follow me to the next page to find out.

Continue reading

HEAVENLY HOMEMADE FROMAGE BLANC

When I lived in France I often had lunch with Valerie,  a beautiful French woman with a sensible approach to food and life in general, who was also our laboratory technician.  Her meals always involved a small appetizer, the main dish and dessert, followed by a shot of espresso.  During those lunches she introduced me to three French delicacies: Kyr Royale, Badoit water, and fromage blanc , her favorite light dessert. I became hooked on all three the first time that I tried them.

With regard to French cheeses, fromage blanc doesn’t get the praise it deserves. It’s smooth, tangy, light, and refreshing. Plus, you can enjoy it in different ways: plain, or with honey, sugar or fruit; with salt and herbs as a spread for crusty bread,  or whipped with cream to incorporate in recipes.

I’ve been in a state of fromage blanc withdrawal since then, but no longer!  Thanks to a tiny package from the New England Cheesemaking Supply Company, I’m the proud owner of almost 2 pounds of fresh cheese that sent me straight back to Paris as I drizzled it with honey and raised a spoonful to my lips… I’m sure Valerie would love it too!  ;-)



FROMAGE BLANC

(recipe from New England Cheesemaking Supply Co.)

1 gallon of whole milk, pasteurized
1 packet of DS culture (order here)
(cheese cloth for draining)

Heat the milk in a large pan to 86F. Add the contents of the package and mix well. Cover the pan and allow it to sit at room temperature for 12 hours.

Line a colander with double thickness of cheesecloth, place it in the sink, and carefully ladle the curdled milk into it. Let it drain for 6 to 12 hours, depending on how thick you like it to be. (You can do this step in the fridge, placing the colander inside a pan to catch the draining liquid).

When the cheese is in the consistency you like, remove it to a container and keep it refrigerated.

ENJOY!

to print the recipe, click here

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


Comments: If you have ever considered making cheese at home, I urge you to try this recipe! I cannot praise enough the customer service at New England Cheesemaking Supply:  contrary to the other two companies I contacted, they went out of their way to ensure that I would get the culture quickly.    A real pleasure to deal with! I am now tempted to make mozzarella at home, their website makes everything seem pretty easy… ;-) And they have a nice blog too, check it out here.

ONE YEAR AGO: A Perfect Sunday Dinner

Add to FacebookAdd to DiggAdd to Del.icio.usAdd to StumbleuponAdd to RedditAdd to BlinklistAdd to TwitterAdd to TechnoratiAdd to Yahoo BuzzAdd to Newsvine