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SHORT AND SWEET

No, this is not an autobiographic post!  ;-)   Even though I like to think the name fits me to a T, “Short and Sweet” is actually Dan Lepard’s new cookbook. The moment I learned of its upcoming publication, I pre-ordered it at amazon.uk.   Do I live in England?  No, not even close.  Would I wait for its US printing?  No way!  And I am thrilled to have it.

My first surprise was its size: 561 pages!    On the cover, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall summarizes my own impression after a couple of very late nights reading it: “Dan demystifies the baker’s art… all kinds of seductive treats become instantly achievable.”    This is the essence of Dan Lepard, particularly evident on the subject he is best known for: breads.  He dedicates the first 100 pages of the book to them, starting with a must-read  introduction that covers all the basics, from flour to yeast, proofing temperature, kneading,  shaping and baking.  One by one, he destroys all the misconceptions and the rigid (often snobbish) advice so widespread in many publications by other authors.   Then he offers a long list of recipes for white loaves, whole wheat, rye, quick breads, rolls, flat breads, wrapping up the chapter with some sweet and fruit breads, and a quick tutorial on how to make a sourdough starter.  In one of the recipes, called “Flash Loaf,”  Dan puts all his expertise into designing a recipe that will give you a fantastic loaf of bread in two hours from start to finish.  I have it on my list to try in the near future.

The second chapter of the book is dedicated to cakes (my nemesis). Once again, he introduces the subject by going over the ingredients and techniques, and even though I always get a rapid pulse while reading about cakes, by the end of the introduction I felt I could tackle any of the recipes that followed.  That’s probably not a smart thing to say, considering some of the messy situations I’ve faced in the past.   Some examples included in this section are: Apple, Walnut & Custard Cake (the photo is enough to make me swoon), Cinnamon Cake with Blackberries (oh, my!), Brown Sugar Chocolate Cake (sigh), Caramel Christmas Cake (double sigh).

Next in line is a full chapter on “Small Things.”  These are small like Chocolate Custard Muffins…. Blueberry Creme Fraiche Cupcakes…. Pumpkin Ginger Cupcakes…. Madeleines….Sweet Buttermilk Scones….  you  get the picture.

Biscuits & Cookies follow the party. As in every chapter, an initial introduction helps set the mind frame for the recipes ahead.  If titles such as Passion Fruit Melting Moments, Banana Fudge Cookies, Ginger Macadamia Biscuits, Blue Cheese and Oatmeal Biscuits appeal to you, you’ll have enough to bake for a long time thanks to those 38 pages of goodies.

A small chapter for doughnuts, batters, and babas, assembled together because, as Dan puts it “they are eaten the moment they’re golden and set after cooking….”    Doughnuts, blinis, pancakes, the famous Crepe Suzette Tour d’Argent (that one brought me memories of an outstanding dinner with my beloved back in 2003), closing with babas (a treat I’ve never had, but after Dan’s description I wish I had a few right in front of me right now! ).

Next in line comes “Sugar Sugar.”  Cute name for an impressive collection of techniques and recipes, the chapter opens with Making Caramel,  and I must transcribe Dan’s remark about it:  “be careful and organised and stay relaxed.”  I might just print this phrase and frame it.  ;-) Butter Caramels, Olive Oil and Black Pepper Caramels, Vanilla Fudge, Chocolate Truffle Cubes…  A full section on icing, sweet sauces, and a few ice cream options close this sweet chapter.

Desserts comes next. Whoever is afraid of making tarts must get this book and indulge in this chapter.  By the time you are done reading his “tips and techniques,”  you’ll want to get into the kitchen and put in practice all his sensible advice.  A few teasers for you: Malted Chocolate and Caramel Tart, Banana Caramel Cream Pie, Soft Crust Apple Pie, Black Forest Eclairs (I’ve always wanted to make eclairs, will definitely try this recipe), Prune and Armagnac Sponge Puddings, Blueberry Cocoa Meringue Pie

If you think that’s all, then you would be wrong.  The final chapter assembles a series of savory recipes such as Ham, Egg, and Potato Pie, Sweet Potato Crescents, Goat’s Cheese and Celeriac Tart, Black Olive Gougeres (triple sigh by Sally, the Kalamata Cheerleader), and many savory doughs, including Dan’s take on a few types of pizza dough.

One very nice touch is the index in outline form, with minor headings in bold. It’s a simple detail that makes finding recipes a lot easier!

Just as his previous book, “The Handmade Loaf,” I can’t recommend “Short and Sweet” highly enough.  Together, these two books cover all the techniques and recipes to keep a baker busy and happy.  Phil, who rarely opens a cookbook, saw it on the kitchen counter and started flipping through the pages.  His words: “…this book is great!  In just a quick glance I see at least 30 recipes you must  make for us,  I mean….. for the students in the lab, of course!”   ;-)

If you want to order the book, click here

If you want to follow the progress of people baking all recipes in it, click here for the Sweet and Tweet Challenge…

If, like me,  you can never get enough recipes from Dan, check his column at The Guardian by clicking here, or his discussion forum.

If you want to know which recipe I chose to inaugurate his book…
come back for my next post…  ;-)

ONE YEAR AGO: Ciabatta, a Classic Italian Bread

TWO YEARS AGO: Portuguese Sweet Bread

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THE US LISTERIA OUTBREAK, 2011

As some of the regular readers of this blog may know, our lab has been working on Listeria monocytogenes since 2003, studying how it transports iron from the environment (or from the human body) into the cell. After the recent outbreak involving cantaloupes from Colorado, I thought it would be worth writing about it.

First, how do bacteria contaminate a cantaloupe? Listeria normally exists  in the environment living on dead organic material in the soil (fallen leaves, rotting wood, dead plants … it’s called a saprophyte), and also in many different species of animals from birds to fish.  Indeed, some proportion (around 10%) of healthy humans have listeria in the intestinal tract, without causing any problems. Contamination of foodstuff happens in many ways. For instance, a worker involved in packaging fruits or handling equipment that harvests and packages fruits (or other foodstuff) may contaminate the produce if he or she has poor basic hygiene procedures.  But this source is quite limited in scope, and more likely, contamination results from fields that are treated with infected manure.

Where are the bacteria in the contaminated food? In the case of cantaloupes, bacteria can only infect the outside of the fruit.  Unless the husk or skin of the product is broken, the inside will remain sterile.   However, keep in mind that when  you cut the fruit open with a knife, you may transfer bacteria from the outside to the interior, edible part of the fruit.  One of the interesting characteristics of listeria, which is crucial to its contamination of food, is that unlike most bacteria it grows very well at low temperatures, like in the refrigerator (4 C). Therefore, if food is contaminated by this organism and refrigerated for later consumption, listeria will simply go on happily multiplying.  Another unfortunate characteristic of this nasty pathogen is that it has no odor, and so it doesn’t seem to affect the taste of the food. Some outbreaks in France were linked to chocolate milk, and people were drinking milk heavily contaminated by listeria without any noticeably bad flavor.

Can you get rid of Listeria by washing the fruit?
  Yes.  You can use dish-washing detergent and a soft brush, followed by a good rinse and blotting with a paper towel.  However, if  the fruit was bruised during transport, breaking the natural barrier provided by its skin, then the bacteria gain access to the fruit’s flesh.  Since refrigeration doesn’t slow its multiplication, in this case you are better off discarding any fruit that originated in the region suspected of contamination.

Why is it so hard to pinpoint the source of contamination? Most enteric bacterial pathogens, E.coli O157, Shigella dysenteria , and Salmonella typhimurium for examples, rapidly induce symptoms (within 12 to 24 hours) after ingestion of the contaminated food.   Listeria begs to differ.  It may take a couple of weeks, sometimes more, for symptoms to appear. You can imagine how tricky it becomes for epidemiologists to trace the origin of the outbreak.  Do you remember exactly what you ate 2 weeks ago, and where it was?  If you’re a food blogger  you might have a higher chance of answering yes to this question, but even then, it’s not easy.  ;-)   Also, the listerial incubation time differs from person to person, complicating the issue even further.

How dangerous is listeria anyway? It depends on who you are. Most healthy individuals will not even develop symptoms or become infected.  It takes a huge dose (about a billion) of bacteria to infect a healthy person.  However, the very young, the very old, pregnant women, and immunocompromised individuals (undergoing steroid treatments, HIV-infected) are at much higher high risk, because their immune systems are not up to the challenge. In France, where unpasteurized cheese is considered (as it should be) a delicacy, pregnant women are advised to avoid them because they are a source of listerial contamination.

What makes Listeria so deadly?  Once you eat contaminated food, the bacteria passes to the intestine, where it invades the epithelial cells,  white blood cells, and then reaches the bloodstream. It releases toxins, which make you sick with similar symptoms to those of other enteric pathogens like E.coli and Salmonella: fever, intestinal cramps, diarrhea, general discomfort. But that’s just the beginning. If your immune system can’t contain the bacterial growth, the strain has one more deadly trick up its sleeve: it can cross the delicate (and normally powerful) barrier between the blood and the brain. Once that happens, meningitis occurs, as well as other serious neurological problems like brain abscesses and paralysis.  Again, for the most part these problems don’t happen with healthy individuals, only those at high risk – young kids, aging people, pregnant women, and immunocompromised patients.

Can listerial infections be treated by antibiotics?  That’s the good side of this pathogen.  Most strains are sensitive to antibiotic treatment, so many  weapons are available to deal with it.  However, once the strain crosses the blood-brain barrier, antibiotics have difficulty clearing the infection, resulting in a high mortality & morbidity rate.

Some cool facts about listeria  Like many other species of bacteria, listeria can swim because they have little organelles called “flagella”  that propel them in the direction of food and other attractants.   However, it is not able to make flagella at the body temperature of mammals and humans – 37 C – so in our bodies, they cannot swim.   How do they move from cell to cell?  In a fantastic mechanism, that almost seems like the product of a science fiction movie director:  once inside our cells, the bacteria induces some of our own proteins to gather together  (in biochemical terms they  induce these proteins to “polymerize”) forming structures that act like jet propellers, and literally push each bacterium across the cell, making it go through the membrane and reach the neighbor cell.    In a classic cartoon depiction, here is what it looks like:

In this figure from Wikipedia (which originated from the laboratory of Dan Portnoy at UC Berkeley), we see in the outer edge images from electron microscope of the “real thing.”  In the center,  a cartoon depiction of what is taking place.  The bacterium is represented as a black, rod-shaped structure. InlA and InlB are two genes necessary for the initial invasion of epithelial cells.   Once inside the cell, the bacterium is briefly contained inside a little vesicle.  But listeria escapes this small “prison cell” by digesting the vesicle’s membrane with an enzyme called  listeriolysin (LLO).   It is then free inside the cell, and immediately starts the process of polymerizing actin (through the action of proteins like ActA), that act to propel the bacterium across the cell, allowing it to reach the cell adjacent to it.  And the process goes on, and on, and on…

What are we specifically working on?   For listeria to go on multiplying in our body, it needs iron.  It steals iron from us by several different mechanisms.  We are trying to understand what are the most important sources of iron, and how could we prevent listeria from using it.  By interfering with its iron uptake mechanism, we hope to prevent it from multiplying to a level that will cause disease.  Some of our published work can be found jumping here and here.

I hope you found this small overview helpful…

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ROGER EBERT

Creative Commons license photo, credit:  Laertes


An amazing man. This article brought tears to my eyes.

He keeps a wonderful blog. Check it out by clicking here.


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“LIFE IS A MATTER OF TASTE…”

That was David Rosengarten’s closing line in his wonderful show “Taste,” years ago on FoodTV. Each episode centered around one dish, prepared by David while he talked about its origins, variations, and ultimately, his method to flawlessly reproduce it in your own kitchen. It was a simple format, but it delivered everything I expected from a cooking show. He almost always remained true to the classics. For instance, his shows on quiche Lorraine, cheese souffle and croissants were all based on recipes from Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking. But sometimes he would wander off in new directions: his interesting show on “Compromise Clam Chowder” was an example of his gastronomic rebellion. After explaining the differences between the New England and Manhattan methods for chowder, he offered his own version, borrowing a little bit from each. Similarly, his macaroni and cheese included a few “extras” to make the dish less monotonous, and it was absolutely delicious.

Through his show I learned about many exotic dishes such as laarb, before I even had a chance to try it in a restaurant. And, I stopped twisting my nose at offal, because David Rosengarten’s recipes were perfect for any palate. From him I learned how to cook pork ribs in a stove-top smoker, mimicking as closely as possible the best ribs of Memphis, one of the homes of barbecue. I loved watching him prepare Brazilian moqueca, even if his pronunciation of the state of its origin (Bahia) was a little off ;-) . His show was classy, informative and fun, and I was sad to see it end.

So, I guess you can imagine how I felt when I received an email from Daniel Boneville, who just produced a video with David, and sent me the link. If you’ve also been suffering from Rosengarten-withdrawal syndrome, allow me to ease your pain, and I cross my fingers that this is just the first of a very long series!

Click here for the one and only David Rosengarten, on a quest to re-create his favorite tomato sauce…

With many thanks to Daniel Boneville….

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PARIS, JE t’AIME…

When we finally took off for Paris our Boeing 777, the biggest and most comfortable of the jumbo jets, didn’t even notice the heavy rain and overcast enveloping Washington DC. And the happy couple it was transporting to the place they love so much didn’t’ mind the foul weather either. Clouds and rain, after all, are the norm in Parisian winter months, so we were ready for it. But, the initial day of such trips is the most difficult: an early morning arrival after a night on the plane with only a few hours of sleep, followed by the huge but requisite struggle to defeat jet lag. To reset our circadian clocks to the new schedule we walked outside as much as possible, and only saw the inside of our hotel room after night fell.

Having lived in Paris for several years we don’t visit many museums or tourist hot spots. “… Been there, done that,” from the Tour Eiffel to La Defense, from Montmartre to the Louvre, from Musee d’Orsay to Musee Salvador Dali, from cemetiere Pere Lachaise to the quartier Latin … Instead, what we love about Paris are the neighborhoods we used to call home. As we turn each corner we pass by each of our favorite cafes, brasseries, and boulangeries. We enjoy repeating our weekly Saturday afternoon walks, and that’s exactly what we did again yesterday… we departed our hotel close to Ecole Militaire and walked and walked, and walked some more….

We stopped at La Grande Epicerie de Paris, where I bought some “pimente d’espelette,” we strolled up rue de Rennes , then turned down to boulevard Montparnasse. We walked and walked some more, stood at the corner of Boulevards St Michel and St Germain, the gateway to Notre Dame, now so beautiful after its recent cleaning, and continued down to the cafe Les Deux Magots, which brings memories of dining outside at countless cafes throughout Paris, savoring the views of people passing by. Yesterday it was 40 F (3 C), but all the seats outside were filled by people from all over the world, each one living their own private love affair with Paris.

What’s for dinner? It was a simple meal at Le Bosquet, a classic brasserie two blocks from our hotel. The same waiter from several years ago handed us a menu that was almost unchanged. Why change oysters, confit de canard, and tarte Tatin? ;-)

On a side note – If you haven’t seen the film Paris, Je t’Aime, I urge you to do so – it is a series of short stories by different directors, filmed in different Parisian neighborhoods. One of our favorites is the final vignette, the narrative (in broken, yet adorable French) of a lonely, middle-aged American woman who, after studying French for a few years, finally visits Paris for the first time in her life. Beautiful, touching, and a declaration of love for one of the most amazing cities in the world.

I feel the same way. It’s so nice to see it all again!

ANTIBIOTICS AND FOOD

If I were to define myself professionally, I’d say I am equal parts microbiologist, molecular biologist, and biochemist.  I obtained my doctorate in biochemistry in 1986, working on the genetic instability and antibiotic resistance of bacteria. Since then, I’ve studied bacterial pathogenesis, vaccine biotechnology, and more recently, the biochemistry of iron uptake by Escherichia coli and Listeria monocytogenes, two potentially lethal bacterial contaminants of food. As a result of these experiences, I have strong opinions about the use of antibiotics in food production.

Watching the news this week, I saw a pig farmer from my home state (Oklahoma) defending the practice of feeding pigs antibiotics to improve their health and weight.   I’d love nothing better than to invite that man over for a cup of coffee and a conversation, so I could ask him what exactly he knows about the use of antibiotics.  For example, has he ever heard of the term “plasmid?”  What about you?  If you care to read about it, then follow me to the next page….

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